How to install, remove and repair the car generator. "Priora": connection diagram and features of the generator

Perhaps one of the most important parts of the modern car's engine is the generator. "Priora" from AvtoVAZ is no exception. There are so many electricity consumers in the car today that a lot depends on the power of the generator. But what if he suddenly "decided" to break down? First, it should be removed.

How is the generator removed from the "Prior"?

Dismantling it may be required in many cases. Surely many "priors" came across the fact that the generator belt was to be replaced at the "Prior". Sometimes you have to change this detail, sometimes - somehow refine. How long does it take to completely remove the generator? "Priora" - the car is quite simple, and therefore it will take relatively little time. More precisely, 40 minutes, but sometimes you have to "pick" a little longer.

What is needed for this? Just the keys to "10" and "13". Be sure to remove the negative battery from the battery. After that, we dismantle the motor mudguard.

• We are looking for the output "D" of the generator, after which we remove the socket of the wire from there.
• We are looking for where the protective rubber cap "B +" is located, then unscrew the fastening nut that is under it (for this the key is used for "10").
• The key to the "13" weaken the tightening of the tension bar.
• Twisting the adjusting screw counterclockwise, reduce the tension of the generator belt.

Further workflow

After this, it is necessary to move the generator neatly in the direction of the engine cylinders, after which we release the roller of the Priora generator from the belt. Then you need to gently tighten and finally remove the adjusting bolt. The following sequence of actions will be as follows:

• It is necessary to completely remove the clamping bar.
• Turn the lower bracket, remove the spacer. After that, gently holding the generator ("Priora" in this respect is not too convenient), in tightness, completely remove the fixing bolt.
• It remains only to remove the clamping bar and completely remove the generator.

Accordingly, the installation of this part should be carried out in the reverse order. If your goal is to replace the generator belt on the "Prior", you can proceed. After removing the old part, a new belt is pulled onto the pulleys. If the generator is removed, it is not difficult to do this.

After that, in any case, do not forget about the adjustment of the belt tension of the generator drive.

Is it possible to repair the burnt generator?

Immediately warn that theoretically it can be done, but only the work with this will be so much that it is much cheaper and easier to immediately buy a new part. But if you so wanted to show your abilities, you can try! Although in most cases the generator ("Priora" in this is no different from other cars) is the consumable part. The brushes and bearings are changing there, and rewinding it is still work.

What do you pay attention to when you look at the generator you have removed and disassembled?

Among the most common problems are: closures between windings on the stator winding, breakage of rods (in the case of short-circuited rotors), there are often cases of poor soldering in the winding (oh, this is domestic quality), and the banal closure of all the same collector plates. Identify them in the course of the flaw detection, which includes the following activities:

• Testing the qualities of electrical insulation.
• Determination of the degree of insulation on the winding.
• Evaluation of the quality of fit brushes.

Common causes of generator failure

Judging by the experience of domestic motorists, most often to generator faults are:

• Damage to anchor blades, which are very often caused by wedging of brushes, which is even more common with complete lack of control over the degree of wear.
• Changing the configuration of the anchor (including its mechanical deformation).
• Very often the armature shaft is completely worn out. It is assumed that this phenomenon is a consequence of the poor quality of metal and the exploitation of cars in the North.
• Often you can see a burnt winding. This, again, happens when the quality of the part is initially low, and also when the machine is used in a heavily dusty area.
• Damage or complete sliding of the anchor bandage.
• Detection of mechanical defects of the reducer: it happens, if some kind of garbage gets on the gearbox, or the roller of the belt of the generator "Priora" itself is worn out.
• Mechanical deterioration of other parts of the generator is possible. It is possible that this was due to the excessive tension of the generator belt.

This is what the "Priora" generator's belt can lead to. 16 valves (engine), this especially often "sin". However, on such motors, the belt tension should be controlled as often as possible, as otherwise the "wedding of the valves" is not far off.

Sequence of work

By the way, how to disassemble the generator of VAZ "Priora"? Note that this will take a little work. First, you need to unscrew the three nuts on the rectifier block, and then - the two mounting bushings at the "plus" terminal. If you do this, then it will not be difficult to remove the bushings.

On the stator winding there are six leads, which must be repaired as gently as possible. The rectifier unit is removed from the generator. Using the tester (this is very important), check the rectifier diodes. If they are normal, the instrument will show a value of 580-620 ohms. If it shows an infinitely large resistance, then the diodes are surely punched. Alas, the entire rectifier unit, alas, is subject to complete replacement. So the positive and negative poles are checked.

Further disassembly

Take a picture or mark the relative position of the generator covers. Turn off fixing bolts, and then, having picked up a screw-driver, uncover a cover. Remove and visually inspect the stator. There should be no signs of grazing the anchor (we have already mentioned this). If wear is noticeable, it will not hurt to change the bearings or the generator cover.

Insert the hexagon spanner into the shaft hole. While holding the shaft, turn it away. Remove the pulley and washer from the generator shaft. With careful punches of a wooden kayak, pull it out of its mounts. Do this very carefully: if later the part does not rise normally, it will be wrenched by the generator belt rotating on the pulley. "Priora" - the machine is quite reliable, but any strength is the limit. So do not rush!

If you feel the play when you rotate the bearing, or if crunches are clearly heard, be sure to replace not only this part, but also the cover generators. To change the bearing, first it is necessary to unscrew the four fixing bolts of the washer, pull it out, and then everything else.

Other repair methods

So, again, we return to more serious topics. Is it possible to fix the generator? Lada "Priora" - a car that repeats the best domestic traditions. Simply put, it is quite simple, and therefore frankly "one-off" details in it are few. So the generator can in many cases be brought back to life, even if something really serious has happened to it. Especially often this happens if you do not change the worn out brush of the generator in time. "Priora" while it will go, but the detail will be hopelessly spoiled.

When the brushes completely wear out, the wires completely abut their holder, so that they first start to spark, and then an arc arises that burns out the lamellae. This "disease" is most prone to the generator on the "Prior" with air conditioning, since it is the most powerful.

How to bring the anchor into working order?

In industrial conditions, damages of this type are corrected by building up copper with a galvanic method and then squeezing it on a lathe. As you know, at home, this possibility is far from everyone, and therefore we offer you an easier way to bring the generator into working order.

First carefully clean the anchor, and then treat the collector to remove the remnants of the melted copper. Remove all visible faults between the lamellae, and then check the anchor on the PCB and remove any hidden faults. Most often they do not burn out completely, the "swallowtail" is completely intact inside the plastic fastening, and therefore does not fall out.

Soldering of the "implant"

It is necessary to thoroughly clean the burnt area with a boron or similar instrument. It is necessary to find a small piece of wire of this diameter, so that it can fit freely into the slot. The second piece must also pass freely into the extension, tightly pressing against the other side of the groove. All this design should be kept in the nest as tightly as possible.

With the help of boron, the final remnants of copper are finally removed, the prepared wires are laid, after which they are properly treated with their solder. Do not regret the material: extra solder will still leak when soldering a new lamella.

How to insert a "seal" correctly?

Particular care must be taken when leveling the remnants of the isolator. A suitable blank piece is cut from a piece of quality copper. It is not necessary to strive for phenomenal accuracy: the main thing is that it ideally fits the width and provides convenience for soldering. It is also puddled, not sparing the solder. Superfluous solder and rosin will be squeezed out, and the remainders will tightly secure the blank in the prepared groove.

The seal is neatly placed on the prepared place, after which the stove of the heated soldering iron is laid on it. As soon as the solder melts and flows, the soldering iron must be removed, and the seal tightly pressed (file, for example). After that, you just have to wait until the solder is frozen again.

Superfluous clean with a file, and then drill on the machine, taking into account the ratio of the axes with the landing stud, while trying to remove as little material as possible. If individual caverns and small deformations are detected on the lamellae, then there is nothing terrible in this.

Of course, this method of recovery can cause legitimate perplexity in those who had not met him before, but such an anchor will work with honor until the brushes wear out completely. Given that the arc from a completely worn brush can not withstand a normal copper lamella, such repairs can be considered more than satisfactory.

Once again we recall that the replacement of the generator on the "Prior" in most cases will be the best solution, since for this operation you will in any case spend much less time and effort. If you do not have the appropriate skills and tools, you should entrust this work to professionals from the service center.