Which primer is better for the aquarium? Aquariums are big and small: decoration

Which primer is better for the aquarium? How much does it need? How to siphonize and clean the ground in the aquarium? The answers to all these questions, important for the full existence of the "inhabitants" of the aquarium, will be considered in this article. Let's build the right aquarium with our own hands, taking into account all the nuances of the nutrient soil and its laying.

Which soil is better for the aquarium - the first question of a person starting to breed fish

Very often, at the initial stage of the "home for fish" arrangement, the question arises: which soil is better for the aquarium? Although later it loses its relevance and ceases to be actively discussed. However, after the expiration of the time, the errors made at the beginning make themselves felt, and as a result, large-scale corrections begin.

The main purpose of this article will be the nuances of selection, preparation and placement of soil filler. In addition, important circumstances in this matter are decorating and cleaning the bottom of the aquarium.

Initially, it is worth noting that the black primer for the aquarium is the most important part of its configuration. Together with elements such as the background, lighting and additional decorative components, it gives a noticeable uniqueness to the placement. In this case, as a substrate, the soil provides the conditions for the existence of a whole complex of microorganisms and plants.

Together with this nutrient soil for the aquarium works as a primitive mechanism that carries out filtration. It deposits microscopic suspensions that pollute the water, which significantly expands its functions.

Before buying the above-mentioned filler, it is necessary to determine the goals, as well as the general vision of the "underwater kingdom". In addition, you need to focus on the key aspects of the choice.

Aspects of aquarium soil selection

• Presence of living plants.
• Alleged varieties of fish and crustaceans.
• The basic color scale.
• Volumes of aquarium soil.

Main characteristics of aquarium soil

Both a small aquarium and its large analogue must be "decorated" in various colors. Usually the owners pick up jewelry themselves. But, despite this, many experts are inclined to choose a dark soil, allowing you to easily view the contents of the aquarium.

If we talk about the expected thickness of the layer, it depends on the parameters of the aquarium, as well as on the number of living and non-living objects. Therefore, the approach to deciding which soil is best for the aquarium to choose is strictly individual.

It should be noted that for aquarium plants and fish, the soil will have a significant difference. As mentioned above, the flora uses it as a substrate for rooting and subsequent nutrition. Given this, it should not only be a decorative component, but also a life-supporting one.

If you believe the general rules for equipping aquariums, then the soil should be fine or medium-grained, taking into account the power of the root systems. For underdeveloped plants, sand can be used, and for highly developed plants a coarse-grained fraction can be used.

Everything else should be considered and soil nutrition, because for plants and fish the right aquarium is a place that allows them to receive nutrients. Peat, clay, and also special preparations purchased in pet stores are sometimes put in the soil.

Note! If you choose which soil is best for the aquarium, then during its purchase it is necessary to study the material from which it is made and the color range. The best option for an aquarium is a natural unpainted coating.

It is also desirable, before acquiring it, to determine the chemical composition and origin of the soil. The presence of limestone will provoke the release of carbonate, which will significantly increase the hardness of the water. The presence of gas bubbles indicates its presence.

Groups of aquarium soils

1. Natural soils - sand, gravel, gravel, pebbles. They can be used where there are small digging species of fish and plants with weak root systems.
2. Soils obtained by processing natural materials mechanically or chemically. They satisfy almost all requirements and are offered in different colors. Despite this, their bright coloring interferes with the natural perception of the aquarium.
3. Artificial primers - glass or plastic balls, manufactured by special technology. They are absolutely harmless, but they can be used only where there are solitary plants. In addition, they are completely unsuitable for keeping burrowing fish.

Since porosity is one of the most important characteristics of a substrate, fine sand with a particle size of less than 1 mm is hardly useful. All is due to the fact that in this filler, metabolic processes are violated due to fast caking of the material. This, in turn, leads to the decay of plant roots.

In addition, the biological balance, which must "visit" the aquarium at home, is very unstable. In this situation, even shellfish and fish, loosening soil, do not help.

Sand, having a particle size of 2 to 4 mm, will be an excellent and easily accessible substrate. Sufficient porosity affects the metabolic processes, which for a long time remain in their original form.

This option is quite suitable for most plants that have both a powerful and weak root system. In addition, it has increased permeability for newly formed roots.

Also it is possible to note the success of small pebbles, the particles of which vary from 4 to 8 mm. The level of caking is much less than that of sand, but the formation of silt passes very slowly. This type of soil is more suitable for large plants that have a strong root system.

Large pebbles and gravel decorate, rather, a small aquarium than a large one. In any case, the amount of such soil should be substantial, in order to somehow differ on the general background. In addition, pebbles and gravel are not used as independent substrates.

It is worth noting that all the above-mentioned natural grounds are connected by common origin - they are small particles of granite. Their mass distribution argues the availability for fans of aquariums. And the color parameters of such soils are from light gray to red shades.

Among artificial substrates the most common is claydite. It has excellent porosity and low weight, which makes it indispensable for fans of fish and florists. During the transplantation of plants this type of soil practically does not injure the root systems.

Together with the above-mentioned advantages, the inner part of expanded clay is an anaerobic flora - anoxic microorganisms. They purify the water of the numerous organic compounds that, over time, appear in the aquarium.

To determine how much soil you need in the aquarium, you should consider its individual parameters. Among them, the size of the "house for fish" is noted, as well as the filling of living and non-living components.

Soil Preparation

If there is an aquarium of 200 liters, then before laying the ground, its bottom must be prepared. Especially it concerns that aquarium soil, which is collected "on the street". Mandatory flushing and boiling are the main procedures to prevent infection.

Shop purchase is not necessary to boil, but it needs to be rinsed and boiled. Here, the use of soap or other cleaning agents is excluded, since subsequently chemical impurities will be very difficult to wash out of the soil. At the very least, it will take a lot of effort and time, which can be used for other useful actions.

These procedures are fundamental. If you have correctly processed and prepared the soil for the aquarium, the price for it, even if it was significant, will no longer have any special significance for you. It is worth noting that the full drying of the future "rock bottom" does not have to wait, because the wet state is natural for him.

Placement of soil in the aquarium

If you follow the recommendations of experienced aquarists, then the soil should be laid in three layers. And the content and nature of the placement must correspond to a certain sequence.

The bottom layer should consist of gravel, which is enriched with iron laterite or clay. Its thickness should be from 3 to 5 cm and include balls with fertilizer. In addition, there may be a mixture of microelements that do not contain phosphates and nitrites, which are so damaging to plants and fish.

It is desirable to focus on the iron in the soil mixture, which is present in the chelate form. Otherwise, it will simply not be available to the representatives of the flora and fauna. In addition, ferrous sulfate, usually used for fertilizing garden bushes, will not work, because it will significantly lower the acidity of water.

If heating cables are used, they are also stacked in this layer. They should not be placed directly on the bottom, because uneven heating leads to cracking of the glass, and the aquarium at home can quickly deteriorate. In addition, sand and clay in this case will be inappropriate - they will also heat unevenly.

The middle layer should contain land with peat impurities amounting to 15-25% of the total bottom soil volume. Its thickness can be no more than 2-3 cm, as an overabundance of peat enriched soil can provoke the rotting process. If in the ground there is a large amount of organic substances, then it can be supplemented with sand.

In addition, the middle layer can be filled with trace elements and clay balls. However, for this, careful preparation of peat and land must be carried out. Strictly speaking, such a rule takes place for each layer.

The top layer should be made of fine gravel mixed with sand. About 5 cm of this soil prevents the turbidity of water due to peat contact with the ground. It is here that the stones for the aquarium are used, which can be purchased in the same pet store.

If snails or fish digging in the ground are present in the aquarium, then it is necessary to grow plants in pots or to increase the thickness of the upper layer. This will prevent significant damage to their root systems.

It is worth noting that usually the soil in the aquarium is placed unevenly. Although it can be distributed in such a way that it will look like a roller coaster that rises to the rear wall. This version of the bottoming can visually give the aquarium volume and a more spectacular appearance.

Most novice aquarists lay out various drawings from the ground. Since they gradually move under the action of water, these compositions are short-lived. Of course, this is not so terrible, but the overall appearance of the aquarium may still deteriorate.

The final procedures, which will make the aquarium 200 liters flawless, will be decorating, pouring water and planting plants. This should be taken care of in advance, so as not to "slow down" the overall arrangement process.

Decoration and decorating

For modern aquaristics, one laying of soil will not be enough. After all, only a professionally designed aquarium can harmoniously fit into the interior and endlessly please its observers. Therefore, the more responsible will be the approach to its decoration, the more it can bring joy to surrounding people.

As mentioned above, for a full "entry" into the interior of the room you need to correctly pick not only the ground, but also the background with the elements of the decor.

The role of scenery is no less important than the representatives of the flora and fauna that fill the aquarium. If the answer to the question, which soil is better for the aquarium, has already been prescribed earlier, then you need to talk more about the design. Everything is explained by the fact that the decor can disguise the equipment installed inside the aquarium.

Types of floor and glass decoration

• Roots from different species of tree (alder, mango, mopanis).
• Multicolored stones.
• Sea corals and shells.
• Pebbles, black quartz, coral sand.
• Plastic and living plants.
• Backgrounds for the aquarium in the form of a film on the glass.
• Various items (castles, wrecks, arches, volcanoes, statues).

Care of aquarium soil

After the main points concerning the quantity and quality of the bottom soil have been solved, it is necessary to proceed to the question of how to siphonize the soil in the aquarium. Simply put, how to remove from its bottom the accumulated mud sediment.

Of course, there are special devices called aquarium siphons, analogues of which are ordinary hoses. They are elongated flasks and flexible tubes from 1.6 to 2 m in length and up to 2 cm in diameter. These components are connected by means of special holes, representing a hose with enlarged dimensions.

After installing the above cleaning structure, it immerses in the aquarium and reads its activity. Due to periodic air sucking, the water from the aquarium begins to pour out, and the most contaminated soil becomes clean. Some aquarists, while searching for an answer to the question of how to clean the ground in an aquarium, can use conventional medical syringes.

While the siphon moves from place to place, its outer end can be clamped, thereby preventing excessive loss of water. Modern versions of cleaning devices are already equipped with cranes to adjust the head, so it is easier to "clean" the aquarium with them.

During cleaning, it is necessary to lower the end of the hose from which dirt leaves, below the water level of the aquarium itself. This must be done so that the dirt does not pour back.

In addition to the aforementioned version of the siphon, there are other designs for cleaning. Most often these are electric pumps equipped with special fabric bags that filter water. However, it must be borne in mind that rocks for the aquarium can get there, so it is recommended to use them as carefully as possible.

The preference of a siphon in front of a conventional hose is confirmed by the presence of processes of "ground drilling" during cleaning. Although, on the other hand, the mud is much lighter than the soil filler, and it must go out unhindered.

Conclusion

Quality soil allows the aquarium to look like a natural reservoir, creating a unique color background for its inhabitants. However, in addition to performing decorative functions, it maintains biological equilibrium, determining the composition and properties of water. In addition, millions of microorganisms "work" in it, providing natural purification of the surrounding air.