Shirt Russian folk: description, sewing, pattern, photo

At all times and for any people, clothing had not only a traditional practical function, but also represented a national mentality and culture. Modern famous couturiers increasingly use the Russian national costume to make their collections. Shirt Russian is the oldest and most versatile element of folk costume. She was allowed to dress everyone: men, women, peasants, merchants and princes.

History of Russian Shirts

Old Slavonic language contains a lot of words that have much in common with the "shirt". But if you approach this question etymologically, then the closest will be: "rub" - a piece, a piece of cloth and "rush" - to tear down, tear.

This can not be called a coincidence. The reason is that the Russian folk shirt is the simplest garment: a fabric cloth bent in the middle and equipped with a hole for the head. And the scissors appeared much later than the person turned to weaving. Gradually, the shirts began to fasten on the sides, and then also complement them with rectangular pieces of fabric - sleeves.

Distinctive features of the male Russian shirt

The Russian shirt (Slavic) is also a means of social integration. It could be worn by both a nobleman and an ordinary layman - the only difference was the material used - flax, hemp, silk, cotton and a wealth of finishes.

The collar, hem and wrists of the Russian national shirt must have been decorated with an embroidery-amulet. The Russian men's shirt of the 17th and 18th centuries can be distinguished from the South Slavic by easily recognizable features: a slit cut to the left on the neck, allowing to hide the cross, and knee-length.

Women's shirt

Russian women's shirt is the fundamental element of the national dress. In the southern part of the country, she wore a skirt-pongee over her, and in the central and northern part she wore a sarafan. A linen shirt that coincided in length with the length of the sarafan was called "camp." In addition, the shirt could be:

• Everyday;
• Festive;
• Surrendered;
• Mowing;
• For feeding an infant.

But among the most interesting carry a shirt-bail. The peculiarity of this garment consists in very long sleeves, sometimes to the hem, which were equipped with slits at the wrist level, which made it possible to tie the hanging sleeves behind the back. In addition, the wearing of such a shirt could be carried out in one more way: fold the excess length of the sleeve into a crease and grab it. Of course, this shirt can not be called a casual one, since it is inconvenient to work in it (by the way, the expression "to work after sleeves" originates from here).

Originally it was worn for divination or some pagan religious rite. And a little later she became a holiday dress or a dress for noble people.

Magnetism of embroidery-amulet

Even many years after the Russians adopted Christianity, they did not cease to believe in the curative power of the embroidery-charm, worn on the outer shirt. The same considerations were taken into account when sewing the first shirt for a newborn - if a boy was born, then they used his father's shirt, and if the girl, then the mother. It was the most powerful amulet. Only to the third birthday of the child sewing clothes from the new material.

Clothes or business card

In ancient times the Russian shirt was not just a piece of clothing, but also a visiting card of every woman. Previously, there were no boutiques and ateliers, and the duties of the hostess included sewing clothes for themselves and their relatives. Consequently, the better the suit was, the more ornamental elements and ornaments on it, the more diligent the wife was. In addition, the Slavic worldview is based on the ability to harmonize the surrounding space - the family, the yard, the house, etc. And you can come to this only if inner harmony is achieved. That is, if a woman is doing well, then the result of her work will be great. Conclusion - if a person put on a tattered shirt, from which threads stick out, then the atmosphere in his family and soul is appropriate.

Important! Needlework was considered exclusively a woman's occupation. This fact also confirms that, according to the ancestors, only the wife should answer for the atmosphere in the family.

Men's Shirt

Russian shirt is very different from a woman's shirt. The difference consists in a more archaic cut and decor. Previously, homespun cloth was popular - a cloth 40 cm wide (the size is determined by the design of a hand loom). It is from here that the origin of the cut, applied to the present day, originates - vertical strips of cloth of different widths are used for making the shirt. The assortment of width of modern material allows not resorting to the use of an additional strip along the mill, but this cut is provided by the spirit of antiquity and the traditions of ancestors.

Russian shirt, the pattern of which has been worked out for centuries, is not only simple, but also practical, because it provides complete freedom of movement, which is so necessary for a man both in work and in combat.

For decoration, embroidered ribbons or braid are usually used, the main places of which are the collar, wrists and lower edge of the shirt. Another decoration is the "background" - the area from the neck to the solar plexus was decorated with embroidery or an insert from another material.

Authentic samples often contained swastika. These decor elements can no longer be called a mere decoration of a man's shirt - it is rather a powerful amulet protecting the owner from evil power and black energy. The belt had the same defensive power, or a sash, which was an invariable and obligatory addition to the male side. Therefore, the word "belted" means not only the loss of restraint and decency, but also defenselessness against evil spirits.

One-piece and composite women's shirt

A large Russian shirt for a woman was sewn from the whole longitudinal panel. In different provinces, similar clothing had its own name:

• In Arkhangelsk she was called a whole or a healer;
• In Vologda - a checkpoint;
• In Kaluga and Orel - one-piece or one-walled.

In the XIX century, these shirts were considered a rarity - they could be met only at the wedding and at the funeral.

Composite shirt (Russian) assumes the presence of the upper and lower parts. The first was to be visible from under the sarafan or poneva, so for its production was used linen or hemp, and then - cotton or silk fabric. To produce the bottom part was a dense homespun canvas.

Shirts of the XIX-XX centuries were predominantly composite. Basically, when sewing, very economical patterns were used, leaving no scrap-waste, since the width of the fabric was taken as the cut-off module.

The shirt included rectangular and wedge-shaped parts. The crotch of the transmission and the backrest, which form the basis of the shirt, was made in such a way that the share thread was placed along these details. If necessary, the hem of the shirt is expanded by means of a side panel or a wedge.

A straight angle was used to connect the sleeve to the central piece.

Most of the shirts contained a crotch - a square or wedge-shaped piece, located under the sleeve and providing freedom to the hands.

Types of cuts

Russian folk shirt can be tailored in various ways.

The most archaic is a tunic-shaped cut. Many nations resorted to it, and in our tradition, he also found reflection in other clothes, for example, in a deaf sarafan, curtain and breastplate.

The most common form is a shirt with polka - shoulder inserts that extend the neck of the shirt, and also connect the front and back. Among them we can distinguish:

• Shirt with straight polikami, sewing which was carried out parallel to the duck of the main part of the mill;
• Shirt with straight polikami, which were connected in parallel with the base of the mill.

The first were popular in the provinces located in the northern and central parts of the country, and the latter - in the Ryazan, Moscow provinces, as well as in the population of the upper Oka.