Replacing the "grenade" on the "Kalina" with their own hands: features, device and recommendations

"Lada Kalina" is a front-wheel drive car in which the engine and the box are located transversely relative to the body. Drive to the wheels through the main gear. The torque is transmitted by hinges of equal angular velocities (simply - the CV joint , or "grenade"). There are several of them - indoor and outdoor. Despite their reliability, these elements can fail. Well, let's look at how the "grenades" are replaced on the "Kalina", what tools are needed for this and what are the signs of the malfunction.

Device

By its design, the inner and outer CV joints are very similar. Thus, the design of the element includes:

• The semiaxis.
• Clamp and anther.
• The clip.
• Hinge housing.
• Separator.
• Ball.
• Locking and tapered ring.
• Spring washer.

Thanks to this device, the elements are able to transmit torque to the wheels at an angle of up to 45 degrees (not only in the horizontal, but also in the vertical plane).

How to determine the breakdown?

The grenade is a ball bearing, the cages of which have transverse grooves. Due to this, the angle between the driven and leading semi-axle changes. Thus, the SHRUS not only transmits the torque, but also changes the angle between the semiaxes. In view of this, over time, a generation is formed on it. In places where there is no tight fitting of parts, backlash and extraneous noise are formed. In practice, this is accompanied by a characteristic crunch. It arises because of the large output on the balls, which move along the grooves. The crunch can appear both with rectilinear motion, and at turn. In the latter case, most likely, requires replacement of the external grenade "Kalina". Ignore this feature is not worth it, because the bearing can fall apart at high speed.

Instruments

To replace the internal "grenade" of "Kalina" and external successfully, we should prepare:

• Two end heads (17 and 30).
• Ratchet and extension.
• Jack.
• Balonnik.
• Vice.
• A hammer.
• Wooden bar.

Let's get to work. Dismantle of the CV joint

First of all, we put the car on a handbrake (or install anti-rollers). Then tear off the wheel bolts and the hub nut. The latter can not be fed, so we use an extension cord. Next, install the machine on the jack, raise its front part and remove the wheel. Then we find two bolts that attach the grenade to the pivoting fist. We unscrew them using an extension cord. Be careful - bolts can sour. To remove them you need to make maximum efforts.

Now we twist the steering wheel to the extreme position (so that the disc would look out of the wheel arch). Pull the swivel fist together with the shock absorber. Next, remove the outer part of the hub with an external "grenade". If it is tight, you can use a hammer. But to beat it is necessary through a wooden block, differently the detail will be strongly damaged.

Further (if it is an external hinge) we extract the old anther and clamp. Now you need to get the very "grenade" from the hub. To do this, you can use a puller or carry out hammer blows on the CV joint. At the same time, it is necessary to rotate its semiaxes.

In the event that the internal "grenade" is supposed to be replaced by "Kalina", all operations are conducted in a similar manner. The only thing - the part is taken out of the box with the help of a mount, without hammering.

Assembly

When the old item is dismantled, it's time to prepare a new one for installation. Please note that when installing the CV joint, an anther of the "grenades" of "Kalina" is also made. The old one is strictly forbidden, even if it is whole. The element has already suffered wear, and the clamps will not give the same pull. So, at first we put on a new anther on the semiaxis. To ensure that the installation has run smoothly, grease the joints with grease. Then press the grease into the bearing itself. Please note that this requires a specialized staff. No litol and graphite will help. This lubricant is sold in bags of several grams (or in tubes). It is better not to save and buy proven compounds. After all, it is the lubrication that will depend on the resource of the new bearing. Remains of the composition are added to the anther and install the "grenade" on the semiaxis. To do this, use a hammer and a wooden bar. It is important to apply light strokes - the new CV joints will go without problems. How is the "grenade" replaced at Kalina? Then remove the excess air from the anther and twist the clamp. After that, put on a swivel fist and fix the hub nut. The torque of the latter is 225-250 Nm. The tightening procedure is best done with a torque wrench. How is the "grenade" replaced at Kalina? Now it remains only to tighten all the wheel nuts and lower the car from the jack. This replaced the "grenades" on "Kalina" successfully completed.

How to extend the resource?

Usually these bearings run on 250-300 and more thousand kilometers. They have a very strong construction. However, there are several factors that can significantly reduce their longevity. This is the state of anther. It is because of it inside get water, dust, sand. As a result, the lubricant turns into a thick abrasive, which has a destructive effect on the bearing. How not to allow this? When operating, periodically check the condition of the anther on the CV joint. If it has cracks or tears, it needs to be replaced urgently. Having discovered a breakdown at an early stage, we can maintain the serviceability of the hinge. On a cracked anther, he can still "resemble" for a while (but still undesirable, especially in wet weather). If this problem is ignored further, expensive repairs will be necessary. Even if the replacement of "grenades" on "Kalina" can be made by own hands, its price will still be about 2,5 thousand rubles. There are several such elements in the car.

Conclusion

So, we found out how the "grenades" on Kalina are being replaced by our own hands. The operation can be performed in 1-2 hours without an assistant. From special tools it is recommended to prepare a puller and a torque wrench. With them, things will go much easier. You also need to choose the right lubricant. It should be resistant to temperature changes and do not change its properties for a long time. Among the manufacturers it is worth noting "SHRUS-4", "SHRB-4", as well as imported "Liqui Moli" and "Mobile-1".