Warming of a wooden floor in a wooden house: how to warm the floor

It is well known that sex is the coldest part in most homes. Especially it is expressed in the case of suburban wooden cottages. This state of affairs is connected both with flaws in the construction, and with fundamental physical laws, according to which, cold air is expected to descend to the lower parts of the premises.

So the task of extreme importance is the warming of the wooden floor in the wooden house. Do not rely on the close fit of the floorboards to each other: over time, they inevitably crumble, which immediately leads to the appearance of drafts.

The given action is carried out on quite accessible and simple technology, which every person who for once in a life dealt with a hammer can master. In the article, we will talk not only about how to perform the insulation of a wooden floor in a wooden house, but also about the materials that should be used for this.

About the technology of work

Before proceeding with the solution of the existing problem, it is necessary to determine immediately with several parameters: the temperature and humidity inside the room, the load experienced by the floors, and also the height to which the floor covering can be raised (due to the layer of insulation). After you decide on all this, choosing a specific floor insulation will be many times simpler.

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the required sequence of work with the correct flooring. To the great regret, this technology is completely broken by the builders, resulting in numerous troubles.

Exemplary workflow

• First, the lag is laid.
• They are attached to small wooden boards or ordinary boards. This coating will perform an auxiliary, supporting role, since it is on it that the layer of insulation material will be laid.
• After that, the heater is filled with all the gaps between the lags themselves. Note that the laying should be carried out as tightly as possible, and all gaps should be filled with a mounting foam.
• Having finished with the previous stage, begin to lay vapor barrier material. It is attached to the lags, and all the existing cracks and punctures are carefully sealed with a special tape.
• At the final stage, they lay the finishing coat and carry out all necessary measures for its final decoration.

The thickness of the insulation layer largely depends on both the climatic zone and the individual preferences of the owners of the house. And now we will paint all the stages in a more detailed form.

Warming on the logs

This method is ubiquitous and is used most often. This warming of the wooden floor in the wooden house is not only simplified as much as possible, but it also gives an excellent result. Especially the given method is actual in those cases when the floor covering is in immediate proximity from a ground (for example, on socle floors).

The technology itself is quite simple, as we already reported at the very beginning of the article. You have to do the installation of logs, which have a T-shaped cut, through which rigidly attached to the log house. The step between them should be not less than 0,6-1 meters. After that, you need to fix the shields (or boards). They can be just stuffed, and can be mounted on skull bars.

Then on the floor we begin to lay the heater neatly. Strangely enough, many builders either forget about the next step, or prefer not to remember at all. Immediately warn you that without steam insulation to perform the insulation of a wooden floor in a wooden house is completely unacceptable!

About the vapor barrier

However, this stage is really necessary only in the case of using certain categories of insulation material. So, without vapor barrier, you can not do with the laying of mineral wool, ecowools. Its sheets are stacked on top of each other with an overlap of 100-150 mm, the edges should go to the wall no less than 100 mm. If the budget is limited, then as a vapor barrier it is quite acceptable to use a conventional, dense polyethylene film. She in the right assortment is on sale in any gardening shop.

The method described by us is good both in the case of the first and socle floors, and at the warming of the second floor and the attic room. Between the floor and the ceiling there will still be a space with overlappings, which perfectly perform the role of the lag. Of course, in this case, it is also desirable to pack a noise-insulating material, in the role of which a normal construction foam can be used.

On the first floors, we should not forget about the method, when the logs are laid on special brick posts. This method is good because the floor is much more durable and warm.

The main advantages of the method

The main advantage of the thermal insulation of the wooden floor on the lags is the simplicity of the work, almost everyone can cope with it. And while the effectiveness of this method is at an altitude. Also, with this option, the insulation is not subjected to mechanical stress, so any thermal insulation material can be used .

Choosing a heater

Making insulation of a wooden floor by own hands, people very often face a problem of a choice of an optimum heater suitable for their purposes. The most commonly used materials are:

• Banal mineral wool (basalt, glass).
• Ecowool.
• Polyurethane insulation.
• Polystyrene granules.
• Penofol.
• Isolon, which is extremely popular in recent years due to its low cost and excellent thermal insulation properties.

You can also use wood sawdust and expanded clay. The latter can often be seen near the construction sites, when whole mountains of this material lie under the open sky. This is a gross violation of technology, as the material quickly absorbs water. If you carry out the warming of the wooden floor from below using claydite, you will inevitably come across huge mold colony and eternal dampness on the first floor (in particular). And now we will talk about the most effective and widely used types of heaters.

Expanded clay

We have already casually mentioned it. How is the insulation of the wooden floor with expanded clay? Extremely easy! First of all, you need to lay a vapor barrier coating on the cover, and the joints should be glued as thoroughly as possible using the scotch tape.

After that, stack carefully dried, clean expanded clay. The thickness of its layer should be at least 20-30 cm. In northern latitudes (where the insulation of the wooden floor of a private house is vitally important), this material can be layered up to one meter thick.

From above all this is once again covered with a material for vapor barrier. After this, you can start laying floorboards and installing a finishing floor.

PenoFol

This material has recently appeared on the construction market. This is a multi-layer insulation, the feature of which is a reflective layer of a thin layer of aluminum foil. The basis is most often used foamed polystyrene, which has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, so that the insulation of wooden floors with penofol is very profitable from the economic point of view due to a sharp decrease in heating costs.

Since this material can withstand heavy loads, it is most often laid directly on the rough floor, and the top is laid with a clean floor covering (the same laminate or linoleum). In addition, it can be used instead of vapor barrier in combination with other types of insulation, which we have already discussed in this article. If you plan to lay it directly on the rough floor, it is highly recommended that you purchase foam foil with a double-sided foil coating, as it has the maximum heat-reflecting capacity.

How to foam foam to the floor?

To the surface it is fastened with nails or with the help of a construction stapler. There are also self-adhesive varieties, which are much more convenient for installation. On one side of such material is attached all the same foil, and on the other side there is a layer of glue. To ensure that the roll of such penofol does not stick together, its adhesive layer is covered with a film that can be easily removed before starting work. Such insulation can be fixed almost on any surface, without using any tools for this.

The material is simply laid on the surface of the rough floor. Unlike all the previous materials, butting is allowed. The slots should be carefully glued with scotch tape. Another advantage of using this insulation is the lack of the need to purchase a vapor barrier, as the foil perfectly copes with this role.

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene)

In modern construction this material, which has been known for a long time, is used every year more widely. Why is the insulation of the wooden floor with expanded polystyrene so popular? It almost does not conduct heat, has the highest degree of heat reflection, practically does not burn. On the foam plastic colony of mold and fungus do not develop, it does not rot. Once you spend money on this material, you can forget about the cold floor covering for a long time.

How is the insulation of the wooden floor made of polystyrene? Everything is very simple. Sheets of insulation are simply laid between the lags. Of course, they should be laid strictly on the vapor barrier layer. If we are talking about the insulation of such a floor, which you do not want to disassemble, you should buy a heater with a minimum thickness, and then simply glue it to the surface with any suitable composition. The advantage of this solution is that the foam provides excellent surface leveling at minimal cost.

Penoplex

And how is the insulation of the wooden floor made with foam? To begin with, this material is the actual analog of polystyrene foam. It differs by a shallower and more homogeneous structure, greater fracture toughness. It can also be laid in the gap between the lags, but it is better to use the way that manufacturers recommend.

In this case, the laying is done on the rough floor, and the plates of the penoplex are placed on it in staggered order. So the ideal thermal insulation is achieved. Attach it to the glue, the gaps between the tiles are sealed with scotch tape.