Lilac Hungarian: planting and care

Lilac Hungarian is no less popular than classic lilac. It is quite widespread in Russia and has been recognized for its high decorativeness, combined with extreme unpretentiousness: it grows everywhere, feeling well not only on the countryside, but also in the gassed air of megacities. In addition, this species is able to tolerate both a clamor and a drought, both with shading and with forty-degree frosts. And the lilac Hungarian breeds quite simply. It can be successfully planted with both cuttings and seeds, and the stability of the crop makes it possible to preserve the species features of the daughter plants.

Landing Location

It is easy to choose a place in the garden, where Hungarian lilac will delight with its flowering. Planting can be done in a sufficiently lighted area, protected from strong winds. It is better to choose places not too low, with moderately moist, drained soil, which contains a large percentage of humus. If the groundwater in your garden is high, it is this type of lilac that will successfully replace the ordinary, which does not tolerate even a short-term flooding of the roots.

Landing

Lilac saplings are best planted when planted from July 15 to September. If to root them sooner or later, in the first year the lilac Hungarian practically will not give a gain, because it will take root. Between the bushes it is enough to leave a distance of two and a half meters.

The first step is the preparation of landing holes. They are digging with straight, steep walls. Dimensions depend on the composition of the soil: on poor, sandy soils they will be 1x1x1 meters, on fertile soils - 0,5х0,5х0,5 meters, or even less. Fill them best with a special substrate, which is prepared according to the following recipe:

• compost or humus - 15-20 kilograms;

• wood ash - 200-300 grams for neutral or twice as much for acidic soils;

• superphosphate - 20-30 grams.

All the constituent elements of the substrate mix well, and then fall asleep in the pit.

Attach a seedling to a new place best in the evening or in cloudy weather. Young lilac Hungarian, intended for planting, should have a well-branched, healthy root system. The length of the roots is desirable from 25 centimeters. Damaged rootlets are removed completely, too long, which can not be straightened in the pit, pruned, and crowned with a secateur cut into three pairs of kidneys.

The most crucial moment: the seedling must be installed in the center of the pit, spread the roots so that they are evenly distributed and looked clearly down, and covered with a substrate. Then the ground is primed to improve the adherence of the roots to the soil and, accordingly, their nutrition.

Care

When planting behind, the plants are watered around the trunks, using 15-25 liters of water for each. Once it has absorbed, the soil is mulched (covered from above) either with peat, or humus, or half-baked leaf, depending on what is easier to find in a particular region. During the warm season, the trunks loose 3-4 times to a depth of at most 7 centimeters.

The first couple of years after planting, the lilac Hungarian is fertilized only with nitrogen. Its sources can be urea (50-60 grams per plant) or ammonium nitrate (65-80 grams). In subsequent years, you can feed the bushes with a solution of Mullein, which is prepared from manure and water in a proportion of 1: 5. This fertilizer requires accuracy when making - it should not be poured directly under the bush, but at a distance of half a meter from the trunk.

Potassium and phosphoric fertilizing is given every 2-3 years in the autumn. They bring them to a depth of 6-8 centimeters. The dosage is as follows: double superphosphate - 35-40 grams per adult plant, potassium nitrate - 30-35 grams. But it's best to use ash. It contains a set of necessary elements in the correct proportion. 200 grams of ash is stirred in 8 liters of water and watered lilac.

Watering is necessary for the plant only during the growth of shoots or flowering and in summer in the heat. For the first few years young seedlings still need shelter for the wintering range. The thickness of the layer should be somewhere around 10 centimeters.