Japanese fatsia: care at home. Breeding and photos of Japanese fatsia

Fatsiyu Japanese (Futsiajaponiai) is sometimes called an aralia of Japanese. It is grown in room conditions.

Sometimes it is petiolate and with monophonic leaves. Its peculiarity and dignity are large dark green leaves of a finger-shaped form. The flowers of the fatsia are unattractive and do not represent any decorative value.

Fatsia is grown both in indoor conditions and in greenhouses.

Fatsia Japanese: photo and description

A very fast growing ornamental tree with a height of almost 1.5 m with leaf size up to 35 cm. Its homeland is sunny Japan. This is an amazing exotic plant with large light green shiny finger leaves. It is also interesting that it is evergreen. The appearance of the trunk changes over time and becomes knotty.

This rather large original plant requires a lot of space, so Japanese fatsia (photo above) is grown at home in large rooms or in the hall.

The tree is slightly branched, the leaves are rounded in a heart-shaped form, 15-30 cm in diameter, 5-9 lobed, shiny, leathery, with long petioles. The flowers themselves are small and fragrant, collected in small inflorescences in the shape of an umbrella, white or greenish-yellow. Dark blue berries are its fruits.

Fatsia requires precaution, as it contains some toxic substances.

Content at home

Japanese Fatsia is an unpretentious plant. A favorite place for her is a bright room, so it is preferable to install it on the eastern and western windows. But in hot weather it is advisable to cover its leaves from direct sunlight.

The best place for her is a delicate penumbra. It is useful in the summer to bear fatsiyu in tenechk. The plant reacts well to fresh air.

The best air temperature for it is 18-22 ° C, because under such conditions the leaves of the fatsia retain their attractiveness.

In winter, this plant normally tolerates room temperature, but it is best to keep it under cooler conditions - 10-15 ° C. For variegated forms of fatsia, the temperature in winter should not be less than 16 ° C.

Features of transplantation

The soil for Japanese fatsia is fertile and light. It is a mixture of 3: 2: 1, respectively, turf, sand and peat.

When the plant pot becomes tight, the aralia must be transplanted. It is best to produce this procedure at the very beginning of growth (in spring). For the formation of the plant every spring to prune, preferably in the morning, so that the juiciness stops in the evening.

While the plant is young, it must be transplanted annually in the spring, and then every three years. The third part of the height of the pot should be filled with drainage from expanded clay.

Perfectly this plant grows on hydroponics.

Fatsia is Japanese. Home care: watering and top dressing

The only serious whim of fatsia - it needs constant spraying with soft water. It is also recommended to rub the leaves with a damp cloth or a soft sponge. In the summer, the plant should be given a warm shower. In winter, the amount of spraying can be reduced, and with a cold winter it should not be done at all.

During the growing season (summer) it is desirable to water regularly, and periodically spraying the leaves to maintain a bright and brilliant appearance. During dormancy, watering should be reduced to prevent rotting of the roots of the plant.

During the growth period, aralia should be fertilized with complex fertilizers once every 2 weeks. During the rest period the plant does not fertilize. And in the autumn season to make top dressing is not necessary.

At some points, Japanese fatsia requires caution. Care for her in terms of watering should be delicate. Overdrying leads to lethargy and lowering down the leaves. Adjust their position can only be using a garter on the spacers to the horizontal position. And when the soil is too moist, leaves in the plant become flabby and soft, turn yellow, and then fall off. Also, with insufficient watering, the tips of the leaves dry out.

Reproduction

Methods of reproduction of Japanese fatsia are different and uncomplicated. Fatsia and fatshedera reproduce both cuttings apical, and air layers. Seed propagation is also allowed.

In spring, the plant is usually propagated by apical cuttings. And they should have a few kidneys, ready to go to growth. Rooting usually occurs quickly in a moist substrate consisting of a mixture of sand and peat, at 26 ° C. Cuttings should be covered with a jar or plastic wrap, and removing them for airing in the morning and evening for half an hour.

Once they take root, they need to be placed in an earth mixture. With this planting, the plant is usually thickly leafy.

When the bush is bare, it can be rejuvenated and put in order with the help of air removal. In the spring period, a shallow cut is made on the trunk, wrapped with moss (wet) impregnated with any nutrient solution, and covered with a film on top.

Moss should always be kept moist. In place of the incision in a few months, roots will appear. Then, after a short time, the top with roots is cut below the roots formed and planted in a pot. The stump from the remaining old plant should be continued to water, because it will give shoots that will perfectly grow.

Japanese fatsia can also reproduce by seeds. Seeds are sown in containers (pots or vases) to a depth of 1 cm in a mixture of equal parts of the earth with turf, leaf earth and sand. The air should have a temperature of about 18 ° C, then shoots will appear. Then the seedlings, after they are strong, are planted in 10-11-centimeter pots and placed in a lighted room.

Pests, diseases and their control

Fatsia is sometimes attacked by worms, less often by aphids and scutes.

The struggle with the worms for minor damage consists in cleaning the leaves of the plant with a cotton swab soaked in soap. You can also use alcohol. In the case of a more severe lesion, it is necessary to spray fatsia with the Japanese insecticide "Actellik" or "Aktara".

If the plant is infected with a scab, it must be isolated from other flowers. These pests are protected by armor, so it is more difficult to fight with them. Carefully remove them from the plant with a cotton swab or toothpick, treated with "Aktara", alcohol or soap solution.

Forms and types of fatsia

Garden species and forms of Japanese fatsia can be found with different names:

1. Fatsia japonicavar. Moseri - squat dense plants.

2. Fatsia japonicaaureimarginatis - there is a yellow border on the leaves.

3. Fatsia japonica var. Argenteimarginatis - on leaves a white border.

The most popular is the hybrid of ivy and fatsii - Fatshedera Lyce. These are evergreens, densely leafy with lobed leaves, leathery, dark green. The stem is thin, so plants usually attach to the support. Also there are species with a motley pattern of leaves.

Possible problems, ways of determining

In Japanese fatsia, like in any other plant, there are external changes in shape and color. What can it talk about?

• If the leaves of the plant are soft and lethargic, it means that the soil has become waterlogged.
• If the leaves become brittle, then the air is too dry.
• With shriveled leaves, the plant may have received sunburn, or the air is too dry.
• The tips of the leaves acquired a brownish shade or became brittle - a lack of watering.
• The leaves turned yellow and fall off - there was a dehydration of the soil.

Fatsia Japanese at home with the right and good care can be a wonderful and original decoration of the interior.