The content of rabbits in cages for beginners

The maintenance of rabbits on a personal plot is an interesting and very profitable business. These animals grow and multiply rapidly, besides, they are not particularly whimsical in their care. There are three main ways to grow rabbits: in open-air cages, on free-range and in cages. In household plots, the latter is usually practiced.

Pluses of cellular content

Compared to the rest, this method has many advantages. The content of rabbits in the cells can accurately ration the amount of food they eat and make sure that they get all the vitamins and minerals necessary for normal development. Also, when rabbits are bred in cells, the possibility of uncontrolled mating is completely excluded.

Infectious diseases, these animals are often sick. In this case, the attack in the herd is very large, since the infection spreads quickly. With the cellular content of the animal contact with each other less often. In addition, notice a sick animal and isolate it in time will be much easier.

The content of rabbits in the cells has another plus. As animals move with this method of breeding, they gain weight faster. In addition, meat from animals grown in this way is much more delicious and tastier than in aviary.

What should cells be like?

Of course, dwellings for animals should be prepared in advance. Cells for rabbits come in several varieties: for males, for growing young animals and for females with an offspring. If animals are supposed to be kept in very large quantities, they will most likely have to buy homes for them. For a small number of livestock on the backyard, the cells can be made independently. Their walls and lid are usually made of boards. The floor is arranged from a metal mesh, under which a pallet is installed to collect manure. Entrance from the facade is closed with a grate. Feeders and drinkers are located outside the cage. The easiest way is to hang them in front of the door in such a way that the animal can easily reach for food by sticking its head between the bars. Usually, such a structure has cells for the street keeping of rabbits.

The sex of "houses" for animals is sometimes done in a different way. For example, a farmer with twenty years of experience NI Zolotukhin advises to make it slightly inclined towards the back wall and solid. In this case, the cell layers move relative to each other in such a way that the manure can roll outward into the hole closed by the grid. The content of rabbits in cells of this design has some advantage in terms of purity. Manure on the floor practically does not happen, and cleaning up the dwellings of animals is less frequent.

In the cells for females there should be a place under the motherhood. In it the rabbit will feed the cubs.

Optimal dimensions

The arrangement of spacious dwellings is one of the rules for the successful cultivation of such animals as rabbits. Dilution and maintenance (cells can be both purchased and homemade) in inappropriate conditions will lead to frequent illnesses. Rabbits - movable animals, cramped very poorly. In addition, with large crowding, different kinds of infections spread faster. Specific cell sizes depend primarily on the breed of animals. Small animals can make smaller cells. For large animals, accordingly, it is necessary to make dimensional dwellings.

The minimum cell sizes for keeping rabbits are:

• Width - 70 cm;
• Height - 50 cm;
• Length - 150 cm.

This option is suitable for either a female with an offspring, or as a dwelling for two teenage individuals. For a rabbit manufacturer, a cell of at least 70 x 50 x 100 cm size is needed. The length of the dwelling for young animals should not be less than 3 m (approximately 10-12 heads).

Ready-made cells: what to buy

In an industrial way, dwellings for rabbits are often made entirely from galvanized mesh and sold in modular blocks. In such cells, rabbits will also be convenient. But in this case it will be necessary in addition to build a special shed for them. The content of rabbits in winter in cells of similar design directly on the street is unlikely to be a good solution. Completely mesh cells are blown, and there is nowhere to hide the rabbit from the wind. Animals can even just freeze. In summer, rabbits will suffer from heat because of a lack of shade. Shed is a long barn in which blocks are installed in rows along the walls.

Thus, the content of rabbits in the cells from the grid on the street is unacceptable. If you do not want to build a shed, it is worthwhile to look for and buy ordinary cells. They are also found on sale. They make such dwellings for rabbits and private traders. They sell them in the bazaar - in the same place as the animals themselves. Do not buy second-hand cells. In any case, before settling, they should be thoroughly disinfected.

The content of rabbits in cages: detailed experience

Of course, for beginners farmers advice of those who have been breeding these animals for a long time, would be very useful. Therefore, further we present to your attention information on the cultivation of rabbits collected at specialized forums and based on the recommendations of experienced breeders.

How to choose manufacturers

Experienced farmers advise newcomers to acquire rabbits and rabbits only in proven farms. In this case, you can be sure that the animals are vaccinated and healthy. A male is usually bought by 4-5 females. The most popular breeds of domestic rabbit breeders at the moment are the Soviet chinchilla, flannel, rex, gray giant, Californian and some others.

Feeding rabbits

Such an occupation, as the content of rabbits in cages, for beginner fur breeders can be difficult, therefore, feed should be given to each animal separately. In an enclosure, for example, there is no need for this. But if there are few cells, it will not cause any special difficulties. On larger farms, automatic feeding lines and drinking bowls of a special design are usually installed.

The ratio of feed types for rabbits can be, for example, the following: boiled potatoes and vegetables - 50%, concentrated fodder (mostly barley crushed) - 35-40%, protein supplements (meat-and-bone meal, fish waste, whey, ) - 10-15%. Carrots and grass can be given plenty. Cabbage is fed once a week and little by little. In the daily diet must be included fresh branches (willow, karagach, elm, birch, etc.). In the winter, hay and dried brooms are given.

Reproduction

The first mating is carried out at the age of 6-8 months (depending on the breed). The female is always put in a cage to the male, and not vice versa. In this case, he will be more confident in himself and the chances of success will increase. The control mating is carried out in two weeks. At the same time they follow the behavior of the rabbit. If she snaps and does not let the knight, then soon she will have cubs.

The female is bred by the rabbit for about a month (28-32 days). The number of newborns also depends on the breed. They can be from four to 16. Young rabbits bring less calves, more experienced ones. The content of rabbits in cells (photos of newborn calves see below) also has the advantage that beyond the female at the end of pregnancy one can observe and accurately determine the time of sexolite.

About a day before the birth the female begins to arrange a nest. It covers it with its own fluff. Therefore, if you notice his scraps on the floor of the cage, then, most likely, by the morning your livestock will be replenished. During the bunting, the rabbit drinks a lot of water. This stimulates lactation. Therefore, it is desirable to put additional water in the cage. If there is not enough water, the female can bite a part of the litter. The mother bottle in the cage is placed a few days before the enrollment.

Why does a female gnaw rabbits

There are several reasons for this unpleasant phenomenon. To the main, in addition to lack of water during the time of enrollment, it is possible to relate:

• Mastitis. To the female not to fall ill, the floor in the cage needs to be kept clean.
• Foreign smell. It is desirable not to touch newborns with bare hands. Inspection of the nest after the blood is carried out in rubber gloves.
• Lack of space. As already mentioned, space is something that rabbits like very much. Dilution and maintenance (cells should not be small, especially in females with an offspring) should be made according to the rules.
• Frightened. Sharp noises of rabbits in general are very afraid, but in fear behave unpredictably.

But the main reason for eating female rabbits is still a lack of milk. If during the pregnancy of the animal the recommendations of specialists regarding the diet are not followed, the probability of loss of litter is very high.

Feeding the rabbits

From the nest, the young after the mother begin to go out about 3.5 weeks after the enrollment. Basically, in order to eat with her herbs (it is better if it is slightly dried). Lure can start to give already at this time. It can be, for example, crackers or bran. Gradually, the root is introduced into the diet and root crops.

They take off the rabbit from the rabbit in 2-3 months (not earlier than one and a half). The next mating can be done in a month or two after this. The organism of the animal must rest.

Diseases of rabbits

With regard to the resistance to infections of most domestic animals and poultry rabbits are much inferior. They can get very easily. And the infection usually affects most of the herd at once. Therefore, it is very important to carry out preventive measures - to vaccinate on time, to clean up every day in cages, at least once or twice a month to perform disinfection. The diseases to which rabbits are exposed, there are many, and they all have different symptoms. The most dangerous are:

• A typical form of pasteurellosis. At the onset of the disease, the temperature rises strongly in the animal. The rabbit does not eat, but from the nose it has serous discharge. There is no cure for this disease.
• Cysticercosis. Symptoms in the animal with the disease begin to manifest only after intense damage to the body. The animal refuses to eat, its mucous membranes become icteric. On the sixth day the rabbit dies.
• Myxomatosis. Symptoms of this disease are puffiness, the appearance on the body of gelatinous nodules. On the ears and eyelids may be formed bumps and red spots.

Infected rabbits are compulsorily isolated. Carcases of dead or slaughtered sick animals are most often burned.

Very often, the infection is transmitted to rabbits through the infected food. Therefore, do not buy chips at the bazaar. It is through it that all rabbit infections usually spread. It is better to buy fodder at a higher price, but with reliable suppliers with a good reputation. It is highly discouraged to keep rabbits next to chickens and other poultry.

Often rabbit infectious diseases affect the whole herd, and the farmer has to start all over again. Of course, it is expensive to throw out dwellings in which sick animals were dying. Especially if it is expensive modular mesh cages for industrial maintenance of rabbits. But in any case, a thorough disinfection should be carried out. You can do this with "whiteness" or a strong solution of iodine. Metal grids are additionally scorched by a gas burner.

How to slaughter

Most often, rabbits are bred for meat. Scoring animals less than three months old can not be. By this time, the meat is not yet ripe and tasteless. The skins of animals are slaughtered in the cold season, after molting, and not before they are 5-6 months old. Skins in animals younger also not ripe. Slaughter can be done in several ways. In private farms, a stick with a piece of hose is often used. The rabbit is taken for the hind legs and sharply hit the occipital region.

Killing an animal by chopping off the head is impossible. The fact is that after this the nervous system of the rabbit continues to function for a long time. All this time he is in great pain. When a stick strikes with a stick, the nervous system turns off immediately. Before slaughter, the animal is not fed or watered for 12 hours.

Carcase fatiguing

Cutting is done by hanging a rabbit on some branch or pole. Tie the carcass with twine for the hind legs. For a better discharge of blood immediately after killing you need to cut the bridge of your nose. The skin is removed as a stocking, cutting it around its hind legs and cutting through their inner side.

From the carcasses remove all the organs, except the liver, with which the bile is neatly cut off. Before cooking, the carcass should be kept in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours. During this time, partial splitting of the protein will occur, and the meat will taste better.

As you can see, the content of rabbits in cages is a very troublesome business. However, in compliance with the rules of feeding, the most important thing is cleanliness in cages, and the success of this enterprise is guaranteed.