Than to sew a skin? How to flash the skin by hand?

Leather is a practical natural material. It is suitable for the manufacture of footwear, clothing, haberdashery and accessories. However, compared to fabrics, the range of leather products is not so great. Finding the model you like is not exactly possible by the size.

Not everyone is ready to make it up for themselves. It's not a fabric. Than to pierce a skin, knows far not everyone. But, as it turns out, everything is not so difficult. If you know what tools for working with the skin are needed, even without sufficient experience you can take up work.

Material Features

The skin, depending on the purpose, can be of different thickness, color and quality. If it is dyed, then do not get your hands dirty. On the cut, all its thickness should be the same color without a white strip in the middle.

A layer of skin is not a roll material, it is a skimmed animal's skin. It has the property of stretching, depending on the direction of the applied force. On the withers it is more rigid, from the sides it is supple.

The skin is divided into varieties: shoe, for clothing, haberdashery. We can distinguish several more of its varieties: lining, velor, suede, with a polished face, with fur. Techniques for working with all these materials have their own characteristics.

The common thing is that the cut details do not sweep the threads. The sewing needle leaves traces, and it is impossible to remove them from the skin. Therefore, it is worthwhile to carefully think over every detail, order of work and only then get down to business.

Tool

The sewing needle for manual work with the skin should have a wedge-shaped point, most often with three faces. It can be of different length and thickness, with an eyelet that is suitable for the cross-section of the thread. In hard-to-reach places, a needle can be used.

Shyla is used with a comfortable handle, the point must repeat the section of the needle and can be either trihedral or a diamond-shaped section. At a puncture fibers of a skin should not be torn, for this purpose it is necessary to supervise constantly grinding of facets. Threads choose strong, synthetic or flax waxed.

For marking punctures it is convenient to use a copy roller. Its cogwheel at pressing leaves a distinct dotted trail. On the marked places you can sew with different frequency: in each label, through one, two, three - depending on the need.

Sewing needles for the skin can injure the fingers. If you develop the habit of working with a thimble, you can greatly ease the work and protect your hands from puncturing.

In the process of sewing, scissors, a shoe or clerical knife, a plastic or wooden base, a metal ruler, punches, a small hammer will be useful.

How to flash the skin by hand?

Without preliminary marking, you should not start working, if there is a goal to achieve a smooth and neat suture. It is best to use a copy roller, but you can also use a serrated ruler.

An easier way of sewing involves pre-punching holes for the stitches. The variant is more difficult, when before each piercing of a needle for a skin the hole is preliminary outlined by an awl.

This method requires practice, to achieve uniform tension of the thread and a smooth weld at once does not work. But after the holes made by the punch, you can not be afraid of distortions, the main thing - to watch for a uniform tension and not to lose the order of the institution of the thread.

How to sew the skin so that there are no rips in the neighboring holes? It is not necessary to separate, from this the seam fortress can only suffer. But an excessively long stitch will not give enough strength to the joint.

Manual seams

Than to sew a skin with as much as possible strong connection of parts of a material? The most sturdy suture - saddle, they sewed saddles and harness. It is carried out by one thread at the same time with two needles alternately facing each other from different directions.

The moccasin seam is good for both jointing and finishing. The needle is held from itself, a stitch is made to the right on the reverse side and returns to itself. Then the thread is thrown across the rib and wound into the first hole to itself and inserted into the second with stitch formation from the front side. Then the process repeats. If desired, everything can be repeated in the opposite direction from the end of the seam. In this case, the binding will be in the form of cross threads.

Than to sew a skin with fur? To do this, use a furrier's suture from right to left. After laying the fur, the needle is carried away from itself, the thread is thrown back over the edge and a second puncture is made in the same hole. After all, it repeats with the second stitch.

In the manufacture of boxes, cases or suitcases where connections at 90 ° are used, a seam is applied. The edges of the sewn parts are cut beforehand at 45 °.

Secrets of Excellence

To pre-connect the two parts, rubber glue can be used. After trimming, leveling the edges of the material can be done by the engraver on the thick skin from both sides of the groove before rolling the roller. This will make the seam more professional and will keep the thread from abrasion. To determine how much to move from the edge of the material to the puncture, the thickness of the pieces of the material to be pierced is added together.

Needles for leather with a saddle stitch with the holes ready after the punch will not cling the threads if their ends are blunted. This seam will be neat if you keep the order. In this case, the thread with the needle on the top is held first. At the end of the work, you can roll the connection with a marking roller - all roughnesses will be smoothed out.

Starting and finishing the firmware, it is necessary to fasten the stitch with stitches up to 3-4 times in the opposite direction. Having melted and pressed to the skin the short-cut edges of the threads, they can be fixed firmly from the opening.

How to sew a leather on a typewriter?

The main problem is that the material does not stretch under the presser foot. Loosening the tension of the spring does not help. Some come out of the situation, lubricating the surface of the skin with soap, shampoo, petroleum jelly and even machine or vegetable oil.

Others put under the foot of a strip of paper, tracing paper and dense film, followed by its removal. You can try to glue a piece of double-sided adhesive tape to the sole of the foot, if this is a one-time necessity.

Another problem is that the upper part of the skin when sewing stretches, while the lower one, on the contrary, "sits down". In this case, it is better to fasten the layers with glue or use paper clips.

A regular needle can "take" only a soft, thin skin. With a different thickness and density of the material, the seam can lead to the side. For coarse and thick material, you need to use only special needles for the skin.

It is best to have professional sewing machines for such cases. But if at hand only a household sewing machine, how to sew the skin in this case?

What to sew?

In order not to spoil the material, it is better to immediately acquire a special needle for the skin. Its sharpening and the shape of the point make it easy to pierce even very rough material. Depending on the needle, select the thread for machine sewing. They should be strong and elastic. Conventional twisted yarns for manual work in a sewing machine use no sense, they will not work.

Than to sew a skin in house conditions without the professional equipment? For serious work it is better to replace the usual presser foot with a special one with a Teflon coating designed to work with the skin. It should be protected from idle stitching without material, since the lower teeth of the feed mechanism can scratch the smooth surface.

The best option is to purchase a professional version of the foot with the roller. Such a clamp does not brake the skin when fed, but, on the contrary, promotes it, working as an additional upper conveyor. Not all paws are suitable for any machine, so you should pay attention to the mechanism of its attachment to the rod.

Secrets of Excellence

On a household electric machine without experience, it is necessary to sew the skin with extreme caution, it is possible not only to break the needle, but also to disable the mechanism. If there is a choice, then for these purposes it is better to use the old and proven technique with a manual drive.

The maximum possible thickness of the skin is up to 1.5 mm. Soft leather up to 1 mm can be sewn with ordinary needle No. 80-90. If there are gaps in the seam, or the foot rises when the needle is withdrawn, it is better not to waste time and energy, but to look for special needles for the skin.

The length of the stitch is better to be set above the average, since frequent punctures weaken the material. Hard skin will be easier to sew, if it is slightly moistened. Thick places are beaten with a hammer to uniformity.

To fix the seam by the back stroke of the machine is not worth it, it will not hold. It is better to tie the ends of the threads manually and to sing with fire. Seam allowances from the back side are leveled, beaten with a hammer and glued.

Classification of sewing needles

There are two systems of numbering (sizes): European and American. To facilitate the perception, manufacturers mark the numbers of sewing needles in two versions at once through the sign of a fraction (60/8). On the European system in the range of 60-120, on the American system - 8-21. The smaller the value, the smaller the diameter of the needle. Number 60 corresponds to a thickness of 0.6 mm, and 100, respectively - 1 mm.

With the same marking, sewing needles for leather from different manufacturers can differ externally. They are marked with the letters LT and can also be used for sewing fabrics with a varnish coating. For this material manufacturers produce needles with numbers in the range 90/14 - 110/18.

Despite the fact that working with the skin requires knowledge of many technological features of the sewing process and is considered a rather difficult task, with due diligence and patience, experience will emerge with time, and everything will turn out!