Root-owned roses: planting and care

Many gardeners love to grow their own roots. They are grown by those who want to have a large assortment of varieties on their site. Favorite kinds can be borrowed from neighbors, friends. If you try, incredibly beautiful specimens are easy to grow on your own on the site. Root-owned roses differ from those grafted on rosehips. The latter are most often sold in the market, fairs and in the store. It is desirable to have on the site and the one and the other kind, as each of them has its minuses and pluses.

Selecting a landing site

If you decide to grow root-rooted roses, then the best place to plant is from the south or south-west side of the site. Roses are very demanding on the composition of the soil and the presence of nutrients in it.

Root-owned roses grow well, blossom abundantly, with good shelter they easily tolerate wintering. The soil for planting should be rich in humus, well drained, with a ground water level of at least 1 meter to the soil surface. Clayey, heavy soil is poorly warmed up and is not suitable for cultivation of root-rooted roses.

If there is no natural slope, plant roses better in raised beds. Under such conditions, a good warming of the soil and a normal runoff of water are provided.

Planting a root rosary

Once the location and the ground are selected correctly, you can proceed to planting. In pre-prepared fossa you need to lower the seedlings. Root-owned roses are neatly knocked out of the pot with a clod of earth and planted in such a way that the bush in the ground sat lower by 3-4 cm than it was in the pot. Such immersion in the soil will allow it to take root better and allow the active development of additional accessory roots.

When planting roses in rows, the distances between the bushes should be observed:

• Polyanthic - 25x50 cm;
• Stumpy and other strong roses - 100x200 cm;
• Tea and hybrid - 35x50 cm.

After the bushes are planted, the beds should be watered abundantly, covered with peat or humus.

Root-owned roses: care

For the vegetation to pass normally, the flowering was riotous and colorful, roses require a lot of water. Especially in this issue, fastidious roots are rooted. This is explained by the fact that many of them have a horizontally located surface root system. If the top layer of the soil, together with the roots, overheats too much, the plants so fall into a depressed state that they slow down in growth and completely stop flowering. It is necessary to water and loosen the soil, break the crust, which remains after the rains. Throughout the summer period, roses are required to give fertilizer every two weeks. An excellent remedy is fresh mullein with additives from mineral fertilizers.

Summer period

The most flourishing of root-roasting roses occurs in August, September, especially if there is warm weather with moderate rainfall. By this period bushes on well-treated, loose soils are well established. The root system expands in all directions, the crown actively develops, giving subsequently plentiful flowering.

It is worth noting that when caring for root-rosary roses, the first buds in June are best removed, then all the forces of the plant will be allowed to root. In the second wave of flowering, around August, the flowers will be stronger and more beautiful.

Root-owned roses require special care in the first years of life. They reach full strength by the age of five, but they delight the eye much longer than the grafted varieties.

Pre-Winter Agrotechnics

With the advent of the first frosts, the root-rooted roses often stand still in full color with a large number of undecayed buds and young shoots. In general, a rose is a heat-loving plant that does not have its own natural mechanisms for preparing for the winter period.

That is why in the second half of summer, agricultural technology should be aimed at making shoots start to mature and their main growth ceased. To do this, in July you need to stop the cutting of flowers, in August - to cancel all nitrogenous fertilizing. Additional plant nutrition should be made with potassium phosphate fertilizers.

Preparation for wintering

Preparation of root-roasting roses for the winter period takes place in October-November. It is necessary to prune all growing tops, grassy shoots. Then, at the base of the bush, young growth should be cut out, after which the plant should be bored. Every pink bush is covered with earth, which is taken in the inter-row; The height of the land layer should be about 15 cm.

After the frost has gotten to -10 ^о С, plants must also be insulated with lapnika, as well as with a 20-cm layer of leaves. In the first winter, the root-growing roses are the most tender and receptive, so it is necessary to wrap them thoroughly.

Adult bushes carry wintering more easily; They need only one hilling. The most winter-hardy species are polyanthus, park, and climbing.

The result of wintering largely depends not so much on low temperatures as on the moisture content of the soil in autumn and spring. There are cases when a well-overwintered bush rots from excess moisture. This is due to a belated removal of the shelter from the plant or a poor runoff of water at the site of growth.

The Awakening of the Rose

Growing root-rooted roses is a painstaking process. After wintering, warming from the bush is recommended to be taken off gradually. The layer of leaves is removed as the snow melts. As soon as the soil dries, you need to unravel the roses, leaving the lapnick. The latter will pritenate the plant before the appearance of the kidneys.

On cold, heavy soils, root-growing roses begin to vegetate a little later than grafted ones. On warmed and light soils, both species are awakened at the same time.

For the cultivation of root-rooted roses, the most suitable are climbing, park, hybrid-polyantoy, polyanthic, some types of tea-hybrid and repair varieties.

Particularly well developed are root-growing roses, which have features of their biology - a high ability to rooting, active development of the root system.

Plus roses are that after wintering, the plant often survives due to the fact that a new life develops from the subordinate buds in the underground part of the bush.

The difference of the root-rooted rose from the grafted

Root-owned, grafted roses - all of them, undoubtedly, are an ornament of any garden site. What is the difference between these plant species?

Floriculture farms rarely grow root-bearing seedlings, this process is more labor-intensive, long-lasting, especially for the tea-hybrid group.

If you decide to buy a root rosary, be aware that the young plant bush will look weaker than its grafted fellow. But despite this, its survival rate is quite high.

Root-owned shrubs grow more slowly and full strength reach by the age of five. Grafted growth is more active; Shortcoming is a short life. Some root-born varieties can grow to 15 years, pleasing the eye with abundant annual flowering.

Often, shoots of rose hips on grafted varieties cause a lot of trouble. In caring for root species there is no such problem, shoots simply do not appear. Many gardener grafted varieties tend to eventually translate into their own roots.