How to plaster the wall

In the decoration of rooms, plastering of walls and ceilings is one of the final stages, aimed at leveling the surface before painting or wallpapering. The process is quite laborious and requires certain skills, so ideally, of course, it is better to entrust it to specialists. However, if you are out of consideration Savings have decided to learn to plaster yourself - there is nothing unattainable in this desire, we need only thinkfully and thoroughly treat the process. You will be convinced that with each square meter you are getting better and you are more and more satisfied with yourself. So, how to plaster the wall?

Any plaster solution is diluted with water to the desired consistency, a mixture of sand and an astringent, which uses cement, gypsum or lime. Cement plaster is advisable to use where increased humidity: for example, in the bathroom. In dry residential premises, gypsum or lime plaster is more preferable, allowing walls to "breathe" as much as possible. Take into account the conditions of the room before deciding how to plaster the wall. There is a wide range of ready-made plasters in the retail network , however, you can prepare the mixture yourself. The proportions and consistency of the solution depend on the layer for which it is intended.

In the plastering three layers are distinguished: spray, soil and cover.

Spray - the lower layer, designed to ensure reliable adhesion of plaster to the wall material. The solution needs mobility, so it should be similar in consistence to thick sour cream. The soil must be made thicker: the solution should not "float" and slide under its own weight. The same consistency is made and cover.

Before plastering the wall, we prepare its surface: carefully clean everything and install "beacons" - wooden slats or special galvanized profiles, which can be purchased at the store. "Lighthouses", the thickness corresponding to the thickness of the layer, are set strictly on the level at such a distance from each other, so that the above rule (the tool by which you will level the spray) would overlap two neighboring "beacon". In places where there is a gap between the "beacon" and the wall, the gap must be filled with a solution, or the wedges must be placed.

Now you can start actually to spray. Lightly moisten the surface of the wall and in the intervals between the "beacons" trowel, trowel or special scoop with sharp movements throw the solution, moving from top to bottom. The force of the throw is needed so that on the wall "pancakes" are formed, and not bumps, thickly known as the "lighthouse". Take the rule and, at an acute angle (40-45) tightly pressing it to the "lighthouses", level the layer, removing the excess solution. After the solution has seized, we remove the beacons, fill up the voids with a solution and level it up. After this layer has dried up and ceased to crumble, finally rub it with a wooden float and proceed to the primer.

The primer is applied in 2-3 layers, 6-8 mm thick each. We impose the solution on the trowel across the entire width and from the bottom upwards we "transport" it across the wall. Of course, each previous layer should be allowed to dry before applying the next one. The last layer before the coating should be moistened the same way as before plastering the wall.

The coating is applied approximately 4 mm thick. After its drying, the grout is made by a wooden float. Pressing the grater against the wall, we move it around the whole surface in a circular motion. And the last thing is a smoothing with a half-leather with a rubberized working surface. We smooth out first along the vertical, then horizontally, and the wall is ready. After complete drying, you can paint or glue.

Thermal insulation plaster from the usual differs in the composition of the primer layer. Woody sawdust, pumice, slag or other similar (light and porous) materials are included in the solution as a filler instead of sand. Features in the work with such a solution is not, except that the mixing time increases.