How to cut a dress? The style of the dress, the width of the fabric, the layout of the patterns. Sewing for beginners

Dress is a necessary element of any woman's wardrobe. Business and evening, festive and casual, they give the mistress of femininity and elegance. However, only a qualitatively sewn dress will advantageously emphasize the dignity of the figure and hide the flaws.

Recommendations for taking measurements

Each seamstress wants to create something perfect. But how to cut a dress, so that it would sit exactly like a figure? To do this, you must follow the instructions exactly and make measurements on the tailor lines.

So, in order to remove correct and accurate measures, it is necessary to follow certain recommendations:

• It is necessary to wear comfortable underwear before taking measurements. It should not squeeze and overtighten the body. It should be borne in mind that if the cut of the dress involves a specific cutout or complex details, then the underwear should be worn exactly what will then be under the dress, otherwise there may appear protruding details.
• Stand when removing the measurements must be straight, not crumpling, not resting on one leg.
• To determine the waist level, it is convenient to tie a cloth tape around the waistband. Its line will be identified precisely, and it will be more convenient to take measurements.

Basic sizes for tailoring

To sew clothes, there is a standard set of measurements, taking off that, you can build a pattern. Sewing for beginners will not be a difficult process if you clearly produce all the measurements. It is universal. It can be used to build a pattern of sleeveless dress.

Basic measures:

• Girth around the chest. The tape of centimeter should adjoin this part of a body densely, but not to squeeze it, passing on the most acting points of a breast. The girth above the breast is measured over the mammary glands.
• Waist circumference. The measure is taken over the narrowest part of the waist. For this model puts his hands on his belt.
• Hip girth. It is removed only on the protruding points of the gluteal muscles. For owners of the figure "breeches," the measurement is duplicated slightly lower, in the region of the joining parts.
• Breast height. Measures from the point where the neck passes into the shoulder, to the protruding point of the chest.
• The length of the transmission (up to the waist). This measurement is removed from the place where the neck passes into the shoulder (this is the base of the neck). The centimeter is passed through the most protruding point of the mammary gland to the waist.
• Length of the product. For products with shoulders measured on the back. To do this, from the seventh vertebra of the cervical region, one centimeter down and down to the same level as the length of the product. For products that begin on the belt, measured on the back. The ribbon is kept from the waist up to the intended length strictly downwards.
• The length of the back (up to the waist). This measurement is measured from the seventh vertebra strictly down to the level of the waist.
• The width of the back. Shoots in the horizontal direction, on the straightened back. The centimeter is laid through the center of the blades.
• Shoulder width. The size is measured strictly horizontally. At the same time centimeter tape is laid along the most prominent places of the shoulders.
• Length of the shoulder. The size is removed from the base of the neck and a centimeter is laid to the extreme point of the right and then the left shoulder. This is the point of connecting the shoulder with the hand.
• The length of the sleeve. The size is removed from the point of the end of the shoulder and to the contact with the wrist. The hand at this time should be slightly bent at the elbow joint. The hose ¾ is measured in exactly the same way, but up to the elbow.
• Girth of the upper arm. Measured horizontally, the centimeter is laid along the widest (from the shoulder to the elbow) part of the arm at the top.
• Girth of neck. To remove the measure of a centimeter, the neck loosely wraps.
• Depth of armhole. For convenience, a paper clip, 3-4 cm wide, is clamped under the arm. The measurement is carried out on the back from the 7th cervical vertebra and up to the upper line of the paper line.
• Height of hips. The size is removed on the side of the body, from the waist line and up to the thigh line. For convenience of removal of the size on hips and on a waist it is possible to tie a tape, and then the size to remove on a lateral line.
• Length of the leg (from the outside). The size is removed from the waist and on the outside of the leg vertically to the floor.
• The length of the foot (on the inside) or the length of the step. Measures along the inside of the leg from the groin and to the floor.
• Hip circumference. Measured horizontally. The centimeter passes 5 cm below the fold under the buttock on the thigh.
• Circumference of the knee. The size is removed horizontally. The tape runs 2 cm below the knee.
• The height of the knee. Removed a measure from the waist line and down to the middle of the knee.
• Girth of lower leg. The dimension is removed strictly in the horizontal plane. The tape is held on the most voluminous part of the shin.
• Circumference of ankles. Measured horizontally. The tape is held at the thinnest place below the calf.
• Seat height. The size is removed in a sitting position. The model sits on a flat surface. The centimeter is laid on the back from the waist and to the surface on which the model sits.

Dress with Raglan sleeves

Raglan is a way of cutting outer clothing in such a way that the sleeve is cut out together with the armhole without forming an upper shoulder seam. The dress with a raglan sleeve is comfortable - there is no seam on the shoulder, and it fits perfectly on the figure. It is not difficult to cut such a dress, since the sleeve is built into the armhole, and the angle of inclination and the width of the sleeve are adjusted along the already existing modeling lines.

There are several types of such sleeves. But more often the dress with a sleeve "raglan" is cut out so that the line of the armhole is intersected by the line passing the back and neck. This line passes below the points of the vertices of the neck and below the points of the vertex of the backrest by 1.5-5 cm. At the same time, it gradually descends from the top down.

We will analyze in detail how to cut a dress. You need to take measurements to get started. To build a pattern of women's dress size 48, they will be as follows:

• The length of the product is 100 cm;
• Length of the back of the article to the waist - 38 cm;
• Length of the shoulder of the article - 13 cm;
• Semi-grip of the neck of the product - 18 cm;
• Semi-grip of the product (above the breast) - 44 cm;
• Semi-chest of a product - 48 cm;
• Waist hem of the product - 37 cm;
• Half-dressing of the hips of the article - 50 cm;
• Height of the thighs of the article - 20.5 cm;
• The distance between the highest points of the chest is 20 cm.

All sizes and calculations correspond to a figure with a chest girth greater than 80 cm.

When constructing a pattern of dress fitting silhouette will require auxiliary measurements:

• Back width: 1/8 of the chest girth + 5.5 cm = 17.5 cm.
• The width of the armhole: 1/8 of the chest is 1.5 cm = 10.5 cm.
• Breast width: quarter of chest circumference - 4 cm = 20 cm.
• Depth of armhole. The formula looks like this: 1/10 of the chest circumference + 10.5 cm = 20.5 cm. But the depth of the armhole is additionally measured and compared with the calculated value. If the indicators do not match, take the average.

Building a pattern of dress-case

The pattern begins to be built by drawing a rectangle ABCD. How to cut a dress, using the measurements? Let's see:

• From the top edge of a sheet of large format (you can use several sheets of A0 or glued sheets of A4) retreat down about 15 cm and put the point A on the left side of the corner.
• From this point down, a strictly vertical line 100 cm long (this is the length of the dress according to measure) is drawn. It turns out the segment AN.
• A strictly horizontal line is drawn from the first point (A) to the right. The length of this line is equal to: 1/2 girth by measure + 1.5 cm (this is the addition of a silhouette).

Building an armhole line:

• From the point A lay the depth of the armhole downward (obtained from the measured measurements + 0.5 cm). It is required to note two points of construction - Г, Г 1. Draw a horizontal line.
• To the right of the point F lay the width of the back and the width of the armhole (+ 0.5 cm), as well as the width of the chest (1 cm is added).

Construction of the waist line:

• To do this, the length of the backrest to the waist is laid down from point A. A point T is marked. A line TT1 is drawn.

Building a hip line:

• Down from the point T is laid 20 cm - this is the height of the thigh. A point B is marked. A line BB1 is drawn.

Building a side line:

• The value of the width of the armhole with the accounted addition is divided exactly in half.
• Then, from the point of division down, lower the vertical line, continuing it to the intersection with DC. The line of the side is obtained. Vertical lines for the armhole are divided into 4 equal segments.

Forming the neckline of the backrest:

• To the right of point A, 6.5 cm are laid, and downwards - 2 cm. A curved line is drawn.

Formation of shoulder back:

• Down from the left line of the armhole is deposited from the top 1.5 cm. The point 2 and 1,5 are connected.

Building a line of armholes:

• A 2-cm long bisector is drawn from the lower-left corner.

Construction of the neckline:

• To the left of point Ш lay 6.5 cm.

Line shoulder transfer:

• The dotted line, which is an auxiliary line, is drawn from the top of the left side to the top of the point that divides the auxiliary line of the backhoe.

Building a pattern of Raglan sleeves

1. The sleeve is built, proceeding from the pattern of the gear and the back.

2. His pattern is placed on the front of the dress and combine the shoulder section with the top point of the pellet. The mouth of the transmission is divided in half. Conduct two lines from the obtained point: the first - to the armhole, the second - to the sleeve. For the backrest, the manipulations are repeated.

3. The pattern of the front and back halves of the dress, as well as the front and back halves of the sleeve, must be resampled onto the tracing paper. To do this, the modeling lines applied earlier are used.

Determination of the share thread

For the right cut, the essential question is how to determine the lobe of the fabric. The direction of the fibers in the canvas plays an important role. To understand how to determine the equity thread on the fabric, you need to perform a number of actions.

If the fabric is new, the equity will always be along the edge. If there is no edge, then it is sufficient to stretch the canvas in several directions. The share stretches less than the ducks.

That is, where the stretching is less, there will be an equity thread. In addition, if we look at the lumen, then these filaments are more evenly distributed relative to each other than the ducks.

Trapeze dress

In order to understand how to cut a dress "trapezoid", you need to use the scheme for building patterns of a classic dress and slightly change its bottom.

The named product is good because it does not require the drawing of darts, waist and back. Using a template for a classic dress, you need to draw a non-tight silhouette from the armhole, and a free one, in the form of a trapezoid.

The length of the dress is laid off from the armhole, from the chest and back from the shoulder blades. Width at the waist and width at the base of the trapezoid should be approximately 2 times. This form is good for sewing free clothes for expectant mothers.

Sewing for beginners

For those who are just beginning to get acquainted with the tailoring of a dress, it is not necessary to undertake complex models. Sewing for beginners seems like a dense forest. But figuring out how to dress a dress, with a one-piece sleeve or without a sleeve at all, you can start mastering more complex shapes.

Getting started, it should be borne in mind that, for example, using a striped fabric, you need to monitor the direction of the pattern and build a pattern so that the lines everywhere converge. Incorrectly laid out pattern on the fabric will lead to the fact that the product will look cheap. In sewing any dress the layout of the curves is a guarantee that the thing will fit well on the figure and will look elegant and effective.

Light fabric - chiffon, cambric, chintz - requires careful handling. The construction of the pattern must take into account the characteristics of matter. Some fabrics for a better fit of the silhouette must be cut along the oblique. So they will create the effect of lightness and airiness.

Cotton fabrics require ironing, woolen - decal. Many lightweight fabrics after trimming need to be trimmed. In order to determine the amount of skew, it is necessary to pull the thread along the cut line. Then it becomes clear what angle of inclination and how much it is necessary to straighten.

Calculation of the required amount of tissue

Calculation of how much tissue is needed on the dress is made based on the measurements taken and the cut sizes. On a straight, one-piece dress, you need an amount that corresponds to the desired length + sleeve length. At the same time, the volume of the thighs (taking into account the additions to the seams and taking into account the increments for free fitting) is placed along the width of the cut. All allowances are also taken into account in the calculation.

Narrow cloth (about 70-100 cm) should be used from the calculation of 2 dress lengths + one sleeve length. A wide fabric (from 120 cm) allows you to cut the sleeves from the cutting cuttings and the back of the dress. Then two lengths of dress are used.

Consumption of the material on the cut-off waist is made on the one-piece version with the addition of 10 cm for the seams and sections. In addition, you need a little more cloth for accessories and trim.

If the patterns are constructed correctly, then the question of how to cut the dress will be decided by itself. Filling a hand and gaining some experience, any seamstress can easily manipulate measurements and formulas, automatically making a choice in the direction of the optimal silhouette and cut.

Recommendations

For the first time when embarking on sewing a dress, the seamstress is faced with a lot of nuances, still unknown to her.

A strict dress or evening dress , from a dense fabric or from a light, simple or richly decorated with a decor - it's very difficult to choose something.

Do not immediately take on the evening dresses, no matter how beautiful they may appear in the pictures. For each model is a lot of work, even great designers are working on their skills for years. In order not to remain a bad sediment from the first dress, you must choose a simple model and easy-to-use fabric. Let the product turn out to be not discreet, but it will be qualitatively sewn and well seated on the figure. Only in this case, the novice seamstress will want to take up scissors and tracing paper again.