How much tissue do you need on your dress? Style and size of dress, width of fabric

To the joy of our priceless men, femininity is again in vogue. Lovely ladies gladly change boy's jeans for romantic dresses and light sundresses. Impractical, as many think, the female wardrobe is gradually returning to the fairer sex even in the cold autumn-winter period of the year. However, the main difficulty is that the chosen dress model should like, it's okay to sit on the figure and be of good quality.

Of course, you can always spend days and even weeks looking for a suitable product, but many girls and women go the other way - they sew dresses themselves or in the atelier. In the second case, from the woman of fashion, almost no effort is required to get the coveted attire. All the subtleties and nuances of the selection of material, setting patterns, cutting and tailoring will be taken into account by the master. It is more difficult for those who do everything on their own, especially for beginners, because they need to calculate how much tissue is needed on the dress, take into account its composition and pattern features, as well as many other factors. In this article, let's talk about the amount of material that will be needed to create a masterpiece worthy of the Italian podium.

Features of the figure

Before embarking on the tailoring of the product, the dressmaker should evaluate all the factors that directly affect the final result of her work. Specialists in sewing distinguish three basic nuances, on which depends on how much tissue you need on your dress:

• Style of the product;
• Parameters of the fabric;
• The figure of the model.

To sew dresses to dolls in the childhood was easy and simple - cut off a piece of an old shirt or favorite mother's curtains and made to itself an ideal piece of fabric for the beautiful dress. At that time young seamstresses did not particularly care about how much their precious Barbie would be comfortable in a new dress, whether she would wrinkle the dress on her chest or restrict movement. In case of failure and shortage of material, the missing piece was mercilessly cut off from the same curtain or the style of the attire changed right along the way of cutting and sewing.

In real life, the features of the figure of the woman for whom the article is sewn directly affect the calculation of tissue. So, thin it needs to be bought much less, than to ladies with forms. Similarly, low inchwheels can significantly save on the purchase of material, but the tall top models of fabric will have to be typed with interest.

Big small

On dresses of small sizes with a simple cut it will be enough to collect one length of fabric plus 20-30 cm for the processing of slices and sub-creases. Low growth does not always mean minimalism in the purchase of consumables. Girls can be low, but full, or have completely non-standard parameters of the figure. For example, it often happens that with narrow shoulders and small chest volume, a rather thin waist, the woman's hips are very lush, and seamstresses need to build a pattern of dresses taking into account such disproportions. In such cases, the top of the product may be smaller, and its bottom will be the same as for a dress of 54 sizes. Then the tissue should be taken from the calculation of two lengths plus the additional costs for the hem and cuts.

It is necessary to consider whether there will be a cut waist line in the dress, or it will be whole-faced. When the bottom is sewn separately, there is no point in typing two lengths of material for the top, you can only get it on the bottom of the product.

Dress from haute couture

After determining the size of the dress you need to decide on its shape. This factor is perhaps the most important, after all, the desired outfit, tailored to order, the more valuable it is bought, that it was created taking into account all the requirements of the customer and should be ideal in all respects.

When there are calculations and the question arises about how much tissue you need on your dress, you need to consider:

• Length of the product;
• Presence of sleeves, collar, ruff, flounces, frills, basques, wedges, plume or other asymmetric decorative elements;
• Style skirt.

So, if in the plans of sewing a simple dress-case or dress in the floor, but with a modest cut and without additional elements, the girl has a miniature complexion, and a fabric of standard width (150 cm), the material will need no more than one length of the product with the addition of a small allowance On the processing of seams and sections.

54 sizes dressed downwards, sarafans with a wide hem want to buy a cut of fabric, whose length is twice the desired length of the product. Separately, one length of the sleeve, the height of the collar, ruches and frills are computed with the obligatory account of the location of the share thread. That the falling parts lie beautifully, they should be correctly cut. Sometimes for one narrow piece, you need to collect a piece of cloth in its entire length, if it requires cutting.

Raw material

Well, the last major factor is the width of the fabric. As mentioned above, the standard value of this indicator is 150 cm, but there are exceptions. Natural silks, guipure, sewing materials and other expensive fabrics often produce a narrower width (75, 80, 100 cm).

When buying material, it is necessary to check it for the presence of an edge, or rather, its width. Often, the label indicates the total value of the width of the roll, but its extreme parts are absolutely unsuitable for cutting. The edge may not contain a pile, have a smeared pattern, be with holes or other defects that the machine leaves when the material is weaved.

And there is another situation - the width of the fabric can be 180 and even 200 cm. Often these are costume and cotton cuts. Such material is not considered to be flowable, but sometimes it is quite suitable for sewing office or specially designed clothes (work clothes, school uniforms, special clothes, outfits for matinees).

In the case of a narrow fabric, it will take at least two lengths of the product, even for small-size dresses, but broad cloths, on the contrary, are more economical, because they allow you to cut out additional details on the main cut.

Wealth of color and texture is the first enemy of economy

With the highlights we have already figured out, but there are a few additional nuances that can not be missed when tailoring clothes. Experienced modistki, coming to the store, can tell by eye how much fabric you need on the dress, taking into account different factors. For them, it is not difficult to calculate the required cut length even when the material is not monophonic, but, for example, contains a pattern.

For some, this point may seem insignificant, but in fact the inconsistency of the cell or any other pattern on the finished product will be very visible, the overall impression of the outfit can be ruined forever, when the cutting direction did not take into account the direction of the drawing, the hem, and the print or large figure "Sat down" not in its place.

Underwater rocks

Those who sew rarely, can also not think about what fabrics are used to shrink. When choosing the material, you can correctly choose the style of the dress, calculate the color and pattern, the width and the way the threads are interlaced in the fabric, but forget that some materials after washing are tapered, while others, on the contrary, tend to stretch over time.

And if you can not predict anything with the way the material behaves during the long-term operation, then it is quite easy to prevent the narrowing of the product after the first wash. The fabric must be decarticated. To do this, it is saturated with moisture by steam from the iron, steam generator, simply moistened from a spray or by usual soaking. Such a procedure is not needed for synthetic materials, shrinkage is given by cloth woven from cotton, linen, silk threads.

Advice for the pros

All disputable issues are best asked by specialists, you can always find information in specialized sources. Recommendations of professionals are never worth neglecting, their experience and knowledge will help to calculate how much tissue is needed on the dress (without sleeves and with them, with a collar or strap on buttons, with a belt or asymmetrical hem). Do not be afraid to ask for advice from the seller from the fabric store, often there is a qualified and trained staff who is ready to answer all questions of the buyer. They know the width of the material, its composition, the characteristics of the fabric, such as the flowability of slices or the ability to drape.

In case of any doubt, it is best to first build a pattern of the future product and come with it directly to the store, so that, attaching its details to the fabric, clearly see the layout and future cutting.