Ducks on the dress. Patterns of dresses for beginners. Types of darts on the dress

Fashion day after day, moving forward, changing the style and style of women's dresses. New models are slightly embellished, but the base of the pattern remains the same.

Nowadays it is quite difficult to look irresistible and to have in your wardrobe the thing that will only be with you, as the stores are full of monotonous styles of dresses. But there is a way out of this situation - to sew an independently liked model from such a fabric, as you like. And this thing will be in a single copy, that is, a girl in the same dress you do not exactly meet anywhere and get into an embarrassing situation.

Many are sure that this is impracticable, but this opinion is erroneous. There is no difficulty to create your own wardrobe, and therefore save a bunch of money spent on exclusive fashion items.

Patterns of dresses are known only in two versions - they are simple and complex models. Beginners are best to start sewing with simple things. First of all, they can be worn both day to day and for any celebration. Secondly, they will never go out of fashion. Simple patterns of dresses for beginners can be found in our article.

Rules for taking measurements

When you start creating a pattern, you need to remove the dimensions from the model.

1. Half-neck of neck. It is necessary to measure the base of the neck and record the size of half of the measured measurement. That is, if you get 36 cm, then you need to write 18 cm.
2. Half-girth of the chest. We measure along the protruding parts of the scapula and the high part of the thorax. This measure is responsible for the size of your figure. You must also write half.
3. Waist, half-engraved. Measure the most narrow place on the waist, we also record half the size.
4. Hips, half-grip. We measure on the protruding buttock points. It is necessary to take into account the bulge of the abdomen. Merck is also recorded half the result.
5. We measure the height of the back to the waist line. We begin the measurement from the seventh cervical vertebra, it is visible on the ledge, up to the waist line. In this case, the measurement is recorded completely.
6. The width of the back. On the protruding points of the scapula, we measure the width of the back, from one armpit zone to the other. As a measure, half the result is recorded.
7. We measure to the waist line the height in front. By the protruding point of the chest, from the base of the neck to the shoulder, to the waist line. A full measure is recorded.
8. Breast height. The edge of a centimeter tape is placed at the base of the neck and we measure the height to the high point of the chest. Record the measurement completely.
9. The central point of the chest. We measure horizontally between two high points of the chest. Half the result is recorded.
10. Determine the length of the shoulder. Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. Record the record completely.
11. Girth of the hand. It is necessary to measure the circumference of the arm near the armpit. Merka is taken into account in full.
12. Circumference of the wrist. The wrist joint is measured along the circumference. The measure is used completely.
13. We measure to the elbow the length of the sleeve. It is measured starting from the joint on the shoulder and lowering to the elbow. We write down the record completely.
14. The length of the sleeve. It is necessary to measure, also starting from the joint on the shoulder and sinking to the hand. The measure is used completely.
15. Determine the length of the product. It is necessary to measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the desired finished length. Merka is also used completely.
16. Additions for free fit:

• The line of the chest is 5 cm.
• Waist - 1 cm.
• Hips - 2 cm.

Building a Pattern

To build a pattern of dresses for beginners, you need to use a large sheet of paper. If there is no such, then you can take unnecessary leftovers from the wallpaper.

To the left, set aside the length of your dress, for convenience of work, move a couple of centimeters away from the edge. Mark the delayed length with points A (vertex) and H (bottom). To the right of points A and H, draw perpendicular lines.

Determine the width of the dress pattern

To do this, from the point A on the right side, put aside the measurement of "half-swelling of the chest" and, plus the addition of a 5 cm chest line, put the point B. We put the same measure from the point H in the direction to the right and get the point H1, connect points B and H1 with a straight line . In the end, you should get a rectangle.

We measure the length of the back to the waist

It is necessary to measure the point from the point A down to the waist length of the back, adding a half centimeter, and mark the point T. From the obtained point to the right, draw a perpendicular to the line B and H1 and mark the intersection with the point T1.

Determine the hip line

We measure from the point T downwards half the measure "to the waist of the length of the back" and mark the point B. Also from the resulting point, we draw the perpendicular to the right to the line B and H1, the intersection point is denoted by B1.

Determine the width of the back

From the point A in the direction to the right, we measure the measurement of the "width of the back" + increment along the back line of 1.5 centimeters and put the point A1. From it we draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.

We measure the width of the armhole

It is necessary to measure the "semi-chest grasp" into 4 parts + 0.5 cm, put the result to the right of point A1 and put the point A2. From point A2 down we draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.

Determine the neck section from the side of the back

We divide the "neck half-neck" measure into three parts and add a half-centimeter, we put the result from point A to the right, mark A3. Next, measure "neck neck" divided into 10 parts plus 0.8 cm and the result is measured from the point A3 up, we get the point A4. The resulting angle at point A3 must be divided in half by a straight line and on it the result should be postponed: to divide the neck by 10 and minus 0.3 cm, we obtain point A5. Next, we connect the points A4, A5 and A with a smooth line.

We build the shoulder section

For high shoulders, it is necessary to lay 1.5 cm from the point A1, 1.5 cm for the normal ones, 3.5 cm for the sloping ones, mark the point P. We connect the points A4 and P. The length of the shoulder plus the dart 2 cm is laid off from the point A4, We put the point Π1. On the resulting segment A4pl we plot 4 cm from the point A4 and mark the point O. From the resulting point downwards measure 8 cm and mark the point O1 and to the right of the point O 2 cm, mark the point O2. We connect the points O1 and O2. Through the point O2 we postpone from point O1 a size equal to the length of the segment OO1 - 8 cm, mark the point O3. This is necessary in order for the darts on the dress to be equal. The point O3 and N1 is connected by a straight line.

Determine the depth of the armhole

We divide the half-chest of the chest into 4 parts plus 7 cm, we measure the result from point P downwards, mark point D. Through this point, draw a horizontal line in the right and left sides. At the intersection with the line B and H1, we mark the point T3, with the armhole line - T2, and at the intersection with the line A and H we put the point T1.

Back, section of armhole

The distance from point П to Г is divided into three parts and plus 2 cm, we measure the result obtained from point Г in the direction upwards, marking point П2. We divide the width of the armhole by 10 and +1.5 cm, we postpone the result from the point Γ by dividing the angle in half, mark the point Π3. The segment ΓΓ2 is divided into 2 parts and is marked by the point Γ4. Further, the points Π1, Π2, Π3, Γ4 are connected by a curved line.

The lenght, the cut of the front half

We divide the "breast half-breast" measure into 4 parts plus 5 cm, put the result from the point G2 in the direction upwards and mark the point P4. We divide the half-chest of the chest by 10, we put the obtained result from the point P4 in the direction to the left and mark the point P5. The segment r2n4 is divided by 3 and we measure the result from the point r2 in the upward direction. We connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide into two parts and in the direction to the right, observing a right angle, we measure 1 cm and mark the point 1. We divide the angle from the point T2 in half and measure the line equal to the tenth part of the measure "width of the armhole" + 0.8 cm, we mark the point P7. The points P5, 1, П6, П7, Г4 obtained are connected by a curved line.

The cut of the throat is transferred

Divide in half the "half-breast" measurement +1.5 cm, mark on the pattern from the point Г3 in the direction upwards and mark the point В1. We measure the same distance from the point T2 in the direction upwards and mark the point B2. The points B1, B2 obtained are connected together. We divide the "neck neck" measure into three and +0.5 cm, measure the point B1 from the point B1 and mark it with the point B3. We measure the same "neck neck" measurement by three and + 2 cm, measure the direction down from the point B1 and mark the point B4. We connect the obtained points and divide the segment into 2 parts. We take again the "neck neck" measure of +1 cm and draw a straight line at the point of division of the segment B3 and B4 from the center point B1, we obtain the point B5. We connect the curved line of the points B3, B5, B4, we obtain the line of the neck of the front pattern.

Center and chest height

We use the size of the center of the breast, we measure it from the point Γ3 in the direction to the left, we obtain the point Γ6. From the obtained point we draw a line intersecting with the line B1B2. At the intersection point we get the point B6. From it in the direction down we measure the height of the chest, we get the point T7.

Dart construction, types

A cut of the shoulder and breast tuck. Why do you need a dart on the breast of a product? The thing is that the darts on the chest on the dress are placed in order for the dress to have a shape in the place of the convex chest, so they were called breastplates. They can have their origin from the side cut, shoulder, from the neck or from the armhole. The place of their origin depends on the chosen model of the dress and, of course, on the volume of the breast. The direction they always have only to the center of the chest, it should be taken into account when building a pattern.

We measure from the point B6 downwards 1 cm and mark the point B7. We connect B3 and B7. We connect the dashed line B7 and P5. Having measured the segment B7B3 minus 0.3 cm, we measure the resulting result from П5 in the direction to the right and get the point В8.

The segment B7T7 is measured from the point T7 through the resulting point B8 and set B9. Connect P5 and B9.

Lateral suture, define the line

In the direction to the right we measure from Γ the third part of the measure "the width of the armhole", we mark the point Γ5. AND Through it we draw a line vertically. When crossing on the armhole line, we mark the point P, at the waist line - point T2, the hip lines - B2, and the bottom - H2.

Darts on a dress on the back along the waist line

Build on. The arranged darts at the waist of the dress are called thallium darts. They are necessary to create a fit of the dress in the waist. They can be located either on the whole back or forward part or on separate sewing parts, in these cases they are detachable, in addition, the darts can be on the cutting line of the armhole. Many use darts on belt products, whether it's a skirt or trousers, they are also referred to as a thallium tuck.

Merka "half of the waist circumference" is 1 cm for freedom of fit, minus the width of the dress (in our case it is the TT1 line) - this will give us the width of the dart on the dress.

Thigh line

To the measure "half of the hips" +2 cm on the freedom of fitting minus the width of the dress along the width of the dress B1B. The result is divided into 2 parts, one of which is used on the front half, the second - on the back of the product. Measures right and left the result from point B2 and mark points B3 and B4. We mark the same distance from point T2 in two directions along the horizontal line and put the points T3, T4. It is necessary to connect the point P with T4 and T3. The dashed line connects T3, B4, and B3, T4. To the side of dividing the points we measure half a centimeter and connect with the curved line and the points T4, B3 and the second side of B4, T3.

Waistline on the front half

To the measure "waist length is transferred" we add 0.5 cm and postpone the result from the point B1 downwards, we get the point T5. The points T4, T5 are connected by a curved line. Measure the segment T5 T1 and set it from point B1 downwards, we get point B5. Point B5 and point B3 are connected by a curved line.

Darts on the back

Divide the segment Γ1Γ in half and mark the middle of the segment with the point Γ8. From it in the downward direction, lower the perpendicular and at the intersection with the hip line place the point B6, and with the waist line - T6. From point T6 it is necessary to postpone half of the width of the back dash to the right and left, marking with points T7, T8. Then from the point F8, measure downward 1 cm and connect to point T7, in the direction upwards from point B6 3 cm and connect to point T8.

Darts on the front half

Draw a straight vertical line from point G6 downwards to the hip line. The point on the waist line, where it is crossed by a vertical line, is T9, on the hips - B7. We lay off half the width of the front ditch from the point T9 and mark it with the points T10, T11. From B7 upwards measure 4 cm and connect this point with T11, and from T7 down 4 cm and connect the resulting point with T10.

The bottom line of the front half

From points B4 and B3 from the hip line we draw perpendicular lines to the bottom line and mark them with the points H4, H3. Remember: if your dress to the bottom expands, from the points you need to put the pieces to the right and left, equal from 3 cm to 7 cm, and connect them with B4, B3. From the point H1 down we measure the length of the segment T5T1 and mark the point H5. It remains to connect the points H5 and H3 obtained.

It's just the construction of the basis of a simple dress, thanks to which you can model your exclusive model. Assistants will tuck. How to make a dash on a dress? Let us consider them in more detail.

A variety of darts on the dress

The tatter refers to that part of the fabric that must be removed to emphasize the figure and smooth transition from one convex zone to the other.

Darts on the dress are found in two main types. The first option - darts with one vertex, which have the form of a triangle, while their shape will never change, you can only change the size and depth. The wide base of the tipping triangle is always on the convex area, for example, a female breast or a convex hip line. The second option is a dart with two vertices. They have the appearance of two folded triangles, with one vertex. Two tops are used in cases with integral back rest parts and transferring the product, are located on the waist line.

The relief tuck on the dress is perfectly underlined by the chest. They support it from below, the most optimal option for using them in clothing is dense fabric. More breasts means more convexity should be given to the dart. To the center of the chest, the pattern should be the most convex part. Relief types of darts on the dress are located both vertically on the product, and can be made from the armpit. This will give your breasts pomp and accuracy.

A side dart on the dress is called a breast tuck or a tuck along the chest line. It is located more often at the waist in front and behind the dresses. Also, there are models with taps that start from the side seam. Have a dart on the dress at the same distance from the center of the front of the dress and two from the center of the back of the product.

How to make a dash on a ready-made dress?

If the dress you bought is not good for you, or you want to further emphasize your figure, you can make auxiliary darts on the finished product. To do this, put on your dress, look in front of the mirror, where exactly you want to remove excess fabric, and mark with the soap on the wrong side the place of the dart. Observe the symmetry: if you remove the surplus on the right, then on the left you need to remove the same amount of fabric in the dart.

Sweep out the planned darts and try on the product. From the first time did not work? Try several times, and then you will find the exact places of excess tissue. If there is no desire and the ability to remake yourself, ask for help from a clothing repair workshop.