The dandy is ... Who is the dandy?

A charming, aesthetic, elegant flower of a luxurious life, a bit spoiled, internally contradictory, exquisitely eccentric. These epithets, perhaps, you can determine the fashion trend of the early XIX century called dandyism.

Who is a dandy?

The heyday of dandyism is at the end of the XVIII beginning of the XIX century. The homeland of this cultural trend is England. Dandy - it's not just a fashionista who knows how to dress beautifully, it's something mysterious, incomprehensible, unsolved. This is a game in which many bright minds of that time were involved:

• George Brammell is a legislator of dandyism and a character of works, feature films, plays and treatises.
• Oscar Wilde is a London philosopher, writer, esthete and poet.
• George Gordon Byron or simply Lord Byron is an English poet, singing joyless egoism.
• Aubrey Vincent Beardsley is a British artist, poet and esthete.
• Pushkin Alexander Sergeevich - the founder of the literary Russian language, poet, historian, critic and publicist.
• Lermontov Mikhail Yurievich is a Russian playwright, poet and artist.
• Charles Baudelaire is the French founder of decadence, poet, essayist, critic.
• Sergei Pavlovich Diaghilev is a ballet producer and theatrical figure.

But it is George Brammel who is considered to be an arbiter, legislator, commander, named "prime minister of grace", to whom all the followers of this phenomenon were equal.

Dandyism itself develops its own disparaging rules of behavior in society, the life position of superiority over others and a unique style in clothing, combining flawless taste and somewhat spontaneous appearance.

Three components of dandyism

Dandy is a secular lion, an actor, a snob, an intellectual and a fashion leader. It's not enough just to dress fashionably, although the tailored leggings, curled locks, and the impeccable freshness of the shirt, kerchiefs and socks are obligatory. The adept of dandyism should be cool and elegant, elegant and ironic, its motto is the three notorious rules:

1. Nothing to be surprised;
2. Keeping the composure stunned by unpredictability;
3. In time to retire, making an impression.

Dandy portrait

Who is a dandy? How does he look like it? British critic and essayist William Hazlitt in his work of 1821 On the look of a gentleman gives a rather exhaustive definition of the physical appearance of a dandy, implying that the body of a gentleman is his instrument, possession of which must be easy and masterly. All movements are honed, but are free, and completely subordinate to the will of the mod, who runs it with a dispassionate look. According to Hazlitt, the dandy is a more refined version of the gentleman, which is characterized by the clarity of movements and the brilliance of spectacular manners. For a true dandy, it is important not only to dress exquisitely, but also be able to gallantly and with enthusiasm to submit themselves.

Dandy: history and modernity

Mods in history were many. All of them were united by a passion for fashion and something else, something ephemeral, elusive.

The first famous fashionista of antiquity can be considered Alkaviad of Athens, whose name was mentioned by Lord Byron, considering him the most charming hero of antiquity. Baudelaire called the Greek commander and orator the predecessor of dandyism, and Arsen Usse compared Alcibiades, the lover of orgies, with the insatiable seducer Don Juan. Ancient Greek hero was distinguished by magical beauty, conquering the contemporaries of both sexes. The name Alcibiades became the brand of the androgynous style in modern fashion.

The name of Alcibiades in his writings is also mentioned by the disciple of Socrates, the ancient philosopher Plato, who describes one episode of the conversation between the favorite of the audience and those present. Alcibiades detailed the story surrounding the failure of his love affair with Socrates, who rejected his beauty and blooming youth, and laughed at him. To tell outsiders about their own failure can only a person with an amazing self-control and self-confidence.

The definition of "what is a dandy" in the modern world remained the same as in the days of Alcibiades:

• An arrogant, charismatic man, consciously going to a conflict;
• A judge of a style whose amendments are not discussed, but are accepted as true, even if they are rather vigilant;
• The welcome visitor in any salon, club, feast - everywhere.

The environment of modern parties, implying an androgynous appearance, a double-sex in erotic relationships - strongly recalls the ancient times, the times of the birth of dandyism.

Dendist charter

What makes a sophisticated mod? What is the charter and what does the dandy mean?

1. First, material independence. Any dandy treats professionals scornfully, cultivating in his character an amateur attitude to every occupation. Everything that a dandy does should be personally pleasing to him - collecting, studying history or exotic languages, versatile hobbies. All this needs money, but no true dandy could afford to count and think about them.
2. Secondly, the code of honor. The word given by such a mod was not questioned. The warrant in other cases was the patronage of high-ranking individuals. What is characteristic of dandyism is that the requirements for honor were applied only to people of the same class. Failure to comply with the obligations undertaken in relation to the shopkeeper was not considered as something unacceptable, and even welcomed and regarded as bravado.
3. Third, the ability to tolerate bodily inconveniences, which the true dandies acquired through the constant hardening of the body, living in barely heated rooms and hours of training physical endurance of the body with special exercises. The code meant that a dandy is a person who does not feel cold or hot, does not feel thirsty and hungry, never gets tired and does not get tired.
4. Fourthly, pleasure is the supreme goal of life. Therefore, often dandy in life - these are players who tend to break the rules, having fun at the expense of the neighbor.
5. Fifth, the skill is exquisite, elegantly elegantly dress. The costume should be an ideal cut, and the tie is tied with such negligence, which for hours was rehearsed by the mirror.

Dandyism - the cause of financial collapse

If we trace the life history of the most famous dandies of the early 19th century, one can see a certain pattern. Many mods, falling under the meaning of the word dandy, ended their lives in poverty and disease.

• George Bryan Brammel - died in a psychiatric hospital as a beggar.
• Oscar Wilde - died in exile, humiliating poverty, a patient with meningitis, having lost the gift of speech.
• Charles-Pierre Baudelaire - died in a clinic for the insane, diagnosed with syphilis.
• George Gordon Byron - died of a fever in Greece.

It is possible that the indifferent attitude to wealth, prescribed by the dandy code, was the reason for the bankruptcy of many illustrious dandies.

Style of a dandy in clothes

Appearance clearer than all definitions gives an idea of what a dandy is. Clothing mods should be modest only at first glance. A faultless cut of the suit, providing freedom of movement, must be distinguished by grace and elegance. Out of fashion, vivid color shots are replaced. The tone of the suit is now discreet, calm - brown, sulfuric or green. From ornaments: a tie, a pin, a watch and a buttonhole - which are allowed to be bright. Light negligence in tying a tie was achieved by long hours of exercise in front of the mirror. It was a bad thing to wear a new suit. He gave himself up to the servant for a time to impart an image of negligence. Gloves, shirts, scarves and socks changed several times a day.

Conclusion

Today the concept of dandyism is strongly transformed and does not depict a clear image of the original meaning. But the game continues! Modern dandies form a new ephemeral phenomenon of slipping beauty.