Pattern: a dress of jersey. Building a Pattern

Nowadays, when shops are littered with different fabrics, any woman can afford to sew a fashionable and original thing herself. Of course, the shelves are not empty in clothing stores, but it's much more interesting and cheaper to sew oneself and one's own by oneself. After all, a dress made according to the standards of the person who will wear it will sit on his figure in a way that no one, even the most expensive finished thing, sewn according to the standard, will sit down.

The most comfortable clothing is knitwear. With this material it is easier to work than with many other fabric fabrics, and all modern sewing machines are suitable for working with it. Due to its variety, the fabric of knitwear is suitable for sewing both winter and summer clothes. Knitted dress can emphasize the advantages and hide the flaws of the figure.

However, there are several rules for working with knitwear. From this article you will learn how to sew a knitted dress with your own hands and the main principles of working with fabrics of this type.

How to work with jersey

To any material you need your own individual approach, and despite the relative simplicity in processing, knitwear is not an exception. So, first of all we will analyze the nuances of working with the material.

To sew with a knitted dress with their own hands, You will have to buy some extra things.

Tools for sewing knitwear

• Special needles for work with knitwear. Their difference from ordinary ones is that they have not an acute, but a rounded tip. And there are knitting needles of two types: for working with synthetic stretch material and for working with cotton and wool jersey.
• Double Needle. Such a needle is needed for processing the edges of the product. It is thanks to this device that the product will have neat edges treated with two parallel stitches. To install a double needle on the machine, put two coil pins on the coil of threads so that one coil rotates clockwise and the other coil rotates counterclockwise. In the case when there is no additional pin on the typewriter, the second coil is placed side by side into a small container.
• Walking foot. It is necessary for uniform movement of the upper and lower layers of the tissue. However, if you first manually sweep the fabric layers, this part is optional.

Open the fabric

When you have a pattern ready, you still need to dress out the jersey on the fabric, for this you need to prepare it.

• If the knitwear is stretch or synthetic, it will not shrink after washing, however, before washing, it is necessary to wash the cotton cloth twice.
• Before cutting, the material must be ironed.

• Knitwear should be ironed only through the ironing, as with direct interaction with the iron this fabric starts to shine.
• Take care that wrinkles do not form, they will then be very difficult to smooth out, and in some cases impossible.
• Knitwear can not be ironed by driving the iron back and forth. It is better to press the iron for a short while on the whole canvas.
• In order not to stretch the fabric, do not iron it in wet form.
• To gently cut the fabric, pin the pattern with tailpieces in such a way that the direction of the share thread is the same as the direction of the loop columns.
• Knitwear is covered only in one layer, otherwise the pattern can turn out uneven.

Nuances of tailoring of knitted goods

Fabric knitwear easily stretches. Therefore, to sew a quality product, you need to pay attention to some particularly important details.

• Particular attention when sewing knitted garments should be turned on the shoulder seams, as they run across the loop stitches. So that soon after sewing the shoulders are not deformed and not lowered, the seams should be strengthened with the help of braid or a non-woven strip.
• When making buttonholes, it is necessary to compact knitwear in the places where they will be placed. For this you can use avalon, a special material for embroidery; After handling the loops, the product needs to be washed (and the sealant will dissolve) or the glutinous web. The product treated with such a sealant is enough to iron - and the spider will turn into glue and seal the loops.
• If your product assumes the presence of lightning, in order to avoid deformation, the slices at the places where lightning should be sewn must be sealed with adhesive tape or non-woven stripes.
• When you process the sleeves, the neck and the bottom of knitted clothing, try not to stretch the fabric. Places of folding are better glued with adhesive tape and processed with a double needle.

Dress without pattern

First of all, intending to sew a dress out of knitwear, the girl starts to look for different women's patterns. Finding good patterns of knitted dresses is not always easy. A person, superficially versed in tailoring, it will be difficult to determine the quality of the development you like. For beginners, it is easier to make such a dress out of jersey, a pattern for which is not needed.

Building a pattern of dresses on a T-shirt

You can sew the dress you need the length, taking as a basis an ordinary T-shirt or T-shirt.

To do this you will need:

• The cloth.
• A t-shirt that fits perfectly on your figure.
• Sewing accessories.
• Decorative elements (optional).

Determined with the amount of fabric for such a dress, it is worthwhile to decide in advance how long the product you want to get. After that, measure from the seventh vertebra to the desired length of the dress. Plus add the length of the sleeve (the sleeve is measured from the end point of the shoulder to the desired length of the sleeve).

Course of work :

• First, iron and prepare the knitwear, following the tips given above.
• Fold the sleeves of the T-shirt over the shoulder seams and place it on the folded fabric.
• Circle the T-shirt with soap or chalk and continue the resulting pattern to the desired length, making an increase in the hip area.
• Lay out the sleeves on the T-shirt and circle them, extending to the desired size.
• Cut out patterns, taking into account the increments for seams in 1 cm.
• Cut the turning for the neck 6 cm.
• Fold the turning with the neck so that the edge is neat.
• Sweep the throat by hand.
• Stitch it on the typewriter and get rid of the target threads.
• Sew the sleeves into the "pipes".
• Manually swipe the side seams so that both parts of the hem of the dresses converge on the same level.
• Stitch the side seams on the machine.
• Make the hem of the bottom of the dress and sleeves, swipe by hand, and then stitch the hem on the typewriter.
• Using the tips given at the beginning of the article, sew up sleeves to the dress.

Now you are convinced: to sew fashionable clothes, you do not necessarily need a pattern. Dress made of knitwear, sewn on a T-shirt, is a practical and stylish thing.

How to build a pattern yourself

There is a huge variety of different dresses. For sewing most of them need a pattern. Dress made of knitwear is no exception. Of course, you can use the ready-made design, but it's much more interesting to master the construction of a pattern of dresses made of knitwear. Moreover, for a lightly stretch knit fabric, darts are not necessary: such a dress will perfectly accentuate your figure without them.

Elucidation of the percentage of tissue extensibility

Since knitwear is a stretch fabric, to work with it you need to know the percentage of its extensibility.

To find out how much the jersey is stretching, you need to do the following:

• Measure a piece of cloth 10 cm wide in a calm state.
• Stretch this piece of cloth as much as you want the dress to fit your body.
• Take away from the size of the tissue in the stretched state the size of the tissue in a calm state.

The difference is this is the extensibility of the fabric, it remains only to translate it into percentages. For example, if you received 6 cm after the above actions, then the percentage of tissue stretching is 60%, if 1.5 is 15%, if 3 cm is 30%, etc.

How to reduce the pattern by the tissue factor?

To reduce the size of the pattern by the percentage of stretch knitwear, you need to do the following:

• Find out your size, necessary to make a pattern building.
• Divide the girths of the chest, waist and hips into two (it will be a semi-grip).
• The obtained half-joints (each separately) are divided by 100.
• The result is multiplied by the stretch factor of the fabric.
• From the half-grip take the resulting number.

For example, the chest girth is 80 cm, and the percentage of the stretch ratio of knitwear is 40%.

• 80: 2 = 40 (semifinished chest).
• 40: 100 = 0.4.
• 0,4 Х 40 = 16 (centimeters, to which it is necessary to reduce the half-mantle of the breast).
• 40 - 16 = 24 (the size you take for half-biting the chest).

The results obtained after carrying out these actions, and will be the size that your pattern requires. Dress made of knitted fabric, sewed with the above conditions, will perfectly fit your figure.

For clothes of a free type, the percentage of stretching of the fabric is not taken into account. To calculate the half-grip of the hips, the percentage of stretching of the fabric must first be divided into two (if the coefficient is 30%, you need 30: 2 = 15%).

Sleeves, neck and armholes are also made taking into account the stretching of the fabric.

Knitted dress "on the floor"

As you already understood, it's quite easy to build a pattern of knitted dress without tucks on your own. You can create a pattern "from the head", and you can remake an existing one.

If you want your creation to be original and feminine, you do not necessarily need a pattern of a long dress made of knitted fabric. You can build the top of the dress, taking as a sample an ordinary jersey, and hem to sew on an unusual pattern of a knitted skirt.

Pattern of a knitted skirt (hem of a dress with a detachable top)

For sewing such a dress you will need:

• Mike, who sits on you well.
• Knitted fabric, better with stripes or geometric patterns.
• Chalk or soap.
• Centimeter.
• Machine with threads of the right color.
• Scissors.
• Newspaper or other paper for a pattern.

Course of work :

• Prepare fabric using the tips listed above.
• Following the example of "dresses on a T-shirt", circle the shirt for the top of the dress. If the knitwear stretches well, you can not add allowances to the seams.
• Measure the volume of the hips and waist. Since the bottom of the dress is free cut, the stretch factor of the fabric can be ignored.
• Measure the length of the skirt from the waist to the floor.
• Using the half-picks and length you know, build a pattern of the skirt, dividing it into arbitrary triangles (as in the picture). Take into account allowances for seams (1 cm).

• Cut out the details of the hem and the top.
• Sew the triangles of both parts of the skirt together.
• Sew the skirt pieces.
• Sew the parts of the top.
• Sew together the skirt and top.

That's so easy, knowing only a few tricks, you can sew a stylish dress out of jersey.