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Which rust converter is better? Best rust converter - reviews, prices

Sooner or later, every motorist meets with such a phenomenon as body corrosion. Indeed, this is a very serious problem, because if you do not remove the rust in time, it can spread all over the body, "eat" doors, thresholds, wheel arches of the car. To maximally keep the car in its original form, you should not hesitate to eliminate the problem of corrosion. In today's article, we'll talk about such a useful tool as a rust converter. Which is better to choose a solvent and how to use it? Reviews of motorists and the characteristics of this substance - all of this is discussed in detail below.

Appointment

The rust converter is a tool that serves to transform a corrosion layer into a thin film that performs protective functions. Basically, such substances are applied to surfaces of low-alloy and carbon steels. However, even the most powerful solvent has the ultimate feature of action. So, the boundary thickness of the rust layer on the car body should not exceed 100 microns.

On what parts of the body is it applied?

The rust converter ("Kolchuga" including) can dissolve corrosion absolutely on any surfaces of the body of the car. It can be:

1. Wheel arches.

2. Thresholds.

3. Door racks.

4. Cavities of the doors.

5. Welded body joints.

6. Hood, trunk and other metal parts of the car.

Ingredients

Most of these agents include phosphoric acid. Some manufacturers replace it with other substances, which are based on tannin or hydroxycarboxylic acid. Recently, the so-called film transducers have appeared on the shelves of stores. They are also called ground ones. Their composition, in addition to acids, includes the following components:

  • Inhibitors.
  • Biocides.
  • Pigments.

All these compounds contribute to the effective removal of corrosion from any metal surface, and also improve the protective properties of the treated coatings.

Operating principle

The algorithm for the operation of these substances consists in the reduction of iron oxides, after which a protective polymer-latex film forms at this point. The latter is a kind of primer, which in the future will keep the applied layer of paint and varnish, while not allowing rust to re-form. Due to the presence of strong substances in its composition, the removal of corrosion takes only a few minutes.

Varieties

In total there are several varieties of these substances. The first type is primer-modifiers. They are an excellent option for those who prepare a car (or a certain part of the body) for painting, because after the action of such products, a special film appears on the surface. It can be immediately applied to the paint (even without a layer of soil).

The second type is special stabilizers. They are designed to convert unstable iron oxides into more stable compounds.

The third is penetration means. By their properties, such converters interact with corrosion products, thereby sealing them.

By viscosity, all three types of substances are divided into liquid and very viscous. They also differ in the way they are used. Some agents are applied by spraying, and others by brushing.

The rust converter - which one is better to choose? About manufacturers

There are many companies involved in the production of this product. In Russia, one of the most popular is the rust converter from the company Kolchuga. This agent belongs to the most common type of substances - film solvents. After applying to the surface, "Kolchuga" completely removes the corrosion layer. As a result, a gray-colored zinc oxide-phosphate soil is formed at this site, which is not exposed to water, salt and other external factors. Judging by the reviews, "Kolchuga" is a very good rust converter. The instruction says that it takes only a few minutes to convert the corrosion layer into zinc. And there is one bottle (volume - one hundred milliliters) of such substance only fifty-eighty rubles.

But this is not the only rust converter on the market. The drivers' comments also point out the good result of the INTREPID tool. It perfectly copes with corrosion and dissolves it well on any surface in any scale. This is, perhaps, the best rust converter on the world market. The only drawback of this solvent is its cost. On average, the price of one INTREPID bottle is one thousand two hundred rubles.

There is another, cheaper converter of rust with zinc. It is called ROST KILLER. This cleaner perfectly relieves the products even from velvet rust and leaves behind a thin protective coating of a silvery hue. The place treated with ROST KILLER is not rusty for years. In this case, the substance does not eat up a normal metal - its effect extends only to corroded areas of the body. How much does such a rust converter cost? The price for ROST KILLER is about three hundred and eighty rubles. This is very cheap compared to how much you will have to pay for a similar solvent INTREPID.

"Silit Bang" is another rust converter. The price for it is 3 times lower than at ROST KILLER. It satisfactorily fights against corrosion, but does not leave behind a protective layer. Therefore, the area treated with such a tool may soon become rusty again, even if it has been primed before painting. As a result, the surface of the LCP is dotted with pimples, and in some places it may simply crumble. Therefore, "Silit Bang" is not the best car solvent. So which one to choose a rust converter? Reviews of motorists say that the most effective and cheap means is ROST KILLER. By its effectiveness, it is almost inferior to the expensive analogue INTREPID, while it is available to most motorists.

This is far from a complete list of good means for dissolving corrosion on the surface of metals. Their number is measured in tens. You can choose any rust converter you like (which is better to buy a product, you decide only). However, remember that you should give preference to reliable and well-known firms. Otherwise, you will not only throw some money into the air, but you will be disappointed with the result of the work, because a month later rusty stains will appear again on the paint and varnish coating.

How to use a rust converter?

Which is better to choose a solvent, we have already found out. Now let's talk about how to properly use this chemical. At the initial stage of the treatment it is necessary to carry out preparatory work - completely degrease the surface and remove the remnants of dirt and dust. Further, depending on whether it is viscous or not, it is necessary to apply it with a solvent or brush on the damaged body area. After 10-15 minutes you will notice how the rust turns into gray matter (phosphate). After that, you can safely wash off the remains of the abrasive and wait until the surface to be treated dries with water. Next is a primer and painting the metal in 3 layers.

Nuances

Pay attention to the instructions that are on the label. Depending on the type and manufacturer, the solvent must be applied to either a dry or a wet surface. It is not recommended to use the converter if the thickness of the rust layer is more than 0.1 millimeter. If this value exceeds the specified value, it will be necessary to remove the rust mechanically by using coarse-grained sandpaper (or a grinder with a special nozzle).

Conclusion

So, we have considered all the features and purpose of rust solvents. As you can see, this tool very effectively copes with corrosion absolutely in any places of the body. True, the field of its application is limited by the thickness of the rust layer. In places where corrosion has penetrated metal to holes, the use of solvents is only a small part of the work. In such cases, the only effective method of repair is welding (thresholds, doors - not so important), and then - deep putty. However, this is a completely different story.

So, we found out the purpose and features of the rust converters.

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