Epigraph : And it cost so much to suffer to learn so little ... As the orphan boy said, reaching the end of the alphabet ... "Notes of the Pickwick Club" Charles

We know that for proper care you need - shampoo and balm. Today it will only talk about shampoos. The conversation will be long and not much even boring, but after a couple of such articles you will be able to understand shampoos by composition, and not reading advertising slogans.

Historical digression

In ancient times, for washing in general and hair in particular, used egg yolk and sour milk, mixed with clay. But the most popular prototype shampoo was, perhaps, ash - the remnants of combustion products were mixed with water and received a steadily foaming, strongly alkaline mass. In the middle of the 19th century, the industrial production of solid soap, capable of dissolving fats of animal and vegetable origin, began. This famous household soap , which was successfully applied not only by our grandmothers, but also by some contemporaries. I am absolutely against it - because soap under the action of water forms insoluble compounds (with hardness salts) that settle on the hair, forming a white coating and clogging the pores of the scalp (which often causes almost no reversible alopecia).

In the first decade of the 20th century, thanks to Schwarzkopf, the first special means for washing hair appeared. Shampoos in the familiar form for us all appeared in the same Schwarzkopf laboratory in 1933 and were the coveted dream of all then fashionable women around the world. There is even a legend according to which it can be argued that one of the factors in the signing of the pact on not attacking Germany and the USSR was the desire to get our formula of the cosmetic industry of that time (namely the Freedom factory, the one that still exists in Moscow) the formula of the German miracle of shampoos. I do not know how much this is true, but in any case, in Russia, the first shampoo appeared only in the early 60s of the 20th century. It included not only traditional cleaning components (alkyl sulfates), but also softening glycerin. However, despite this, the shampoos were so "hard" (pH = 7-8), that we can compare them only with a modern shampoo of deep cleaning. In the 70s of the 20th century, the company Proctor and Gamble introduced for the first time in the composition of shampoos caring products (cationic components), which added shampoos softness and even some ability to conditioning hair.

Modern shampoos

To date, shampoo from ordinary hygiene has become almost a "ritual", as it provides a soft leaving without irritation on the skin, the presence of various caring properties on the hair, often combined with a therapeutic and preventive effect on the skin, and sometimes even performs the role of a kind of aromatherapy, Thanks to pleasant smells. That is why shampoo is one of the most used cosmetic products, to which the highest requirements are imposed, of which in this article, I will only consider its washing and waste properties, as to discuss the "appearance of the product", its "image" on the advertising I'm not interested in the market at all.

In the modern directory of cosmetology it is written that a quality modern shampoo should have :

- a good detergent effect (of course, this is its main task); Give abundant foam in the water of any hardness (which is very important in our vast country);

- it is good to be distributed on hair (it is important from the point of view of profitability, as in a court yard nevertheless "crisis");

- it is easy to wash off (this is also an indicator of "economy", since the vast majority of people have already put counters on water, besides, the precipitation from shampoo flakes is unlikely to decorate someone);

- Do not irritate the scalp (an incredibly relevant property in the context of increased allergic state of a modern person);

- provide a conditioning effect, that is, easy combing (well, I would argue with this, because in my opinion, this is the work of balms);

- to give hair shine and healthy appearance (well, of course, especially if you mean such a consumer concept as "cleanliness");

- have a convenient packaging and attractive appearance.

Recently in the shampoos began to add multi-colored suspended particles - microspheres with an additive, creating the effect of bubbles or sweets. In addition to an interesting visual effect, they ensure the preservation of bioadditives. However, as if the shampoo outwardly was not attractive, the reality and appeal of its consumer properties can be assessed only after use.

The role of water in shampoo

The amount of water in the shampoo can reach 80%, so water should be, first of all, microbiologically pure (so that the shampoo does not become a "hotbed" of bacteria). It is necessary that it lacks hardness salts (iron, calcium, magnesium), which reduce foaming and very often fall out as a not pleasant sediment. To neutralize these very salts, add so-called chelates (more often Trilon B).

Today it is very fashionable to say that the water in shampoos has been replaced with infusions or herbal decoctions. I'm not sure that this is really possible, since extracts from grasses are a favorable environment not only for the treatment of various dermatitis, but for the growth of all sorts of microorganisms, among which there are not the most "correct" ones. But however ... We still just have to believe what they say in the commercials.  

Washing substance

In spite of such a huge% of water content, the basis of any shampoo is a washing substance. Because the main task of shampoo is to remove mechanical impurities, that is - to wash! The basis of the washing substance in shampoos are surfactants - surface-active substances.

Surfactant properties : 1. reduce the surface tension between water and fat particles, making it easier to remove these particles and dirt; 2. Form a foam (formerly generally considered - the more foam, the better the cleansing.) Now this statement is quite true); 3. Form a suspension of dirt particles in the foam and prevent the repeated settling of dirt on the hair (this is important, otherwise instead of washing we would get torture Sisyphean labor); 4. Stabilize the remaining ingredients of the shampoo or maintain them in a dissolving sosoyanii; 5. increase the viscosity of shampoos; 6. give the hair softness.

The detergent effect is provided mainly by anionic surfactants , the molecules of which contain fat-soluble (hydrophobic) part and water-soluble (hydrophilic) part. In an aqueous solution, the molecules decompose to form negatively charged ions. The fat-soluble part of the molecule binds and envelops particles of mud and the secretion of sebaceous glands. The water-soluble part of the molecule is oriented away from the hair, which carries a negative charge (as is known, charges of the same name are repulsed), as a result of which dirt particles connected with surfactants are rejected by the hair, then dissolved in water and removed with water. These components are also often called detergents and surfactants . Detergents are saponifiers of natural origin, surfactants are synthetic products. Often, several detergents are used in one shampoo: sodium laureth sulfate (most often used), alkyl ether sulfate salts (lauryls of sodium, magnesium, less often ammonium), laureth magnesium sulfate (softer but more expensive), saktisulfosuccinates (soft surfactants based on succinic acid), Acyl peptides (condensation product of protein hydrolyzate and coconut oil).

Cationic surfactants are also very actively used. They have a rather weak detergent effect, but they are well "attracted" to negatively charged hair and fixing supplements on the hair: cationic polymers, quaternized protein hydrolysates, plant polysaccharides.

Amphoteric surfactants - in combination with anionic surfactants increase the harmlessness of shampoo formulations, and in combination with cationic enhances the positive effect of silicones and waste additives on hair and scalp: alkyl amidopropyl betaines, cocoamphoacetate.

Frankly speaking, talking about surfactants can be very long (after all, there are still non-ionic, cryptoanin surfactants and even SOPV, which contribute to the creation of the most balanced recipes), but I believe that this can be ended, since further difficult chemical Subtlety.

Aesthetic Supplements

Mutants : designed to mask the heterogeneity of the product or its not beautiful color, which allows you to virtually change the formula, improve its consumer properties. After the addition of opacifiers, the shampoo becomes more like lotion or milk than traditional detergents (such as household products). By chemical structure, opacifiers are aqueous dispersions of polymers.

Dyes : are introduced to mask unwanted shades. They should be safe for consumers, light-resistant and not decompose under various kinds of influences (heating, freezing, etc.). In most countries, the use of colorants is regulated. In total, there are several regulatory systems - American, European and Japanese. Russian producers adhere to the European regulation of dyes. And in general - the theme sooo not simple and quite boring, for this - everything.

Perfume : in addition to the fact that it "decorates" the product, making it tempting for the buyer, perfume, including, hides the smell of raw materials. So - think about it. If the smell is too strong, does this mean that the raw materials are not very high quality ... The perfume should be compatible with the rest of the shampoo's fillers and do not deteriorate with time (it should be kept for at least 3 months). Scheme of giving odor to shampoo is very complex and, unfortunately, along with preservatives and colorants can be the main cause of allergic reactions to shampoo. There is a single European directive that defines the 26 major allergens that can enter into a perfume, but for safety reasons must be indicated on the label, especially if their number exceeds the allowable value.

Functional Additives

Preservatives are substances that are added to cosmetics to stop the growth or destruction of microorganisms, since cosmetics are an excellent medium for growth and reproduction of microorganisms. This is very dangerous, because microorganisms not only worsen the quality of the product, but also release toxins (naturally occurring poisons), which can very much provoke the development of inflammatory and allergic reactions. So, microbiological purity largely depends not only on the consumer properties of the product, but also on its effectiveness and, I would even say, safety. Selection of a preservative is carried out individually for each product. This is a rather difficult task, since it is necessary to take into account: effectiveness against a wide range of microorganisms; Compatibility of the preservative with all the ingredients of the shampoo; Low toxicity; Temperature stability; Stability over a wide pH range.

The main preservatives used are benzoic acid derivatives, various parabens, methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, propylene glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and the like.

Thickeners (viscosity regulators): add to shampoos to give the desired consistency. Polyvinylpyrrolidone polymers and structured copolymers of acrylates are most often used as thickeners. The glycerol esters of fatty acids and polysaccharides of vegetable origin can also serve as thickeners.

Solubilizers: These are special substances that increase the solubility of slightly soluble ingredients. Most often, various oxyethylated products are used. Solubilizers are often used to dissolve fragrance. Some supplements before shampoo are also dissolved in solubilizers (for example, jojoba oil, wheat germ, fat-soluble vitamins).

PH regulators: for softening, so familiar to us the hydrogen index, add soft acids (citric, lactic, orthophosphoric) or alkali (sodium hydroxide, mono- or triethanolamine). The pH value in shampoo is incredibly important, because it should be such as to ensure the effectiveness of all components that make up its composition. In general, there is an opinion that it is pH that determines the degree of skin irritation when using shampoo. But dermatologists consider this statement rather controversial, as many researchers emphasize that the skin has good buffer properties (the ability to quite vigorously monitor fluctuations in pH, that is, stabilize the pH). The only thing that can lead to a weakening of this buffer system is a poor washing off of shampoo from hair and skin, but then not only pH regulators and not so much will work on irritation.

Conditioning additives

Designed for : removal of static electricity (once I met the term - "reducing the spread of hair"); Smoothening of damaged cuticle areas (smoothing of porosity); Ease the ease of combing hair (both wet and dry); Giving shine and silky hair; Thermal protection; Moisturizing and nourishing the hair; Increase in the volume of hair.

The mechanism of the action of air conditioners: in fact, the effect of the banal magnetization of the "+" charged molecules of air conditioners to the "-" charged surface of the hair occurs. However, in addition to the magnet, in this case, there is also some binding of the conditioner molecules to the keratin of the hair. This property is called substantivity, thanks to which conditioners are not only fixed on the surface of the hair, but also retain a useful additive. It is believed that the damaged areas of the hair have a large negative charge, which means that more "+" charged (cationic) particles are fixed on them, that is, the cosmetic effect is enhanced. In fact, this is the fact that many brands are positioned as "smart care."

Among many advantages of the conditioner, the ability to give the hair incredibly beautiful and strong shine is highlighted. This is achieved by the fact that the conditioners "glue" the scales of the cuticle of the hair, which makes the surface smoother (the index of the reflection of the hair changes significantly), thus intensifying the color intensity and natural shine.

There are, however, not the most pleasant side effects of these wonderful cationic air conditioners. Very often shampoos (especially for very damaged and lightened hair) quite heavily weight the hair, significantly removing the volume. Therefore, when creating shampoo, technologists need to observe the exact balance between washing and conditioning components. This is also important because the excessive increase in conditioning additives greatly impairs the washing and cleansing of the shampoo. Very important and the choice of air conditioner. For example, the strongest and most effective conditioner is silicone oil, which accumulates very much on the hair (memory of this is incredibly tenacious in the minds and memory of our customers). Therefore, modern specialists prefer to use light (volatile) silicones.

It is very important to remember that no matter how strong and restoring is not the shampoo, the presence of conditioning additives does not exclude the need to use balm . This is especially important for damaged, clarified and curly hair, as well as for long hair with split ends. Remember that the damaged areas contain a large surface with a negative charge, and the action of the cationic components will simply not be enough.

Silicones: give the hair softness, shine and silky, reduce electrostatic charge, facilitate the combing of wet and dry hair, preventing their damage (in addition, they reduce the stickiness in masonry). Silicones have the property of gluing cuticle scales, performing a restorative function. In addition, they create a film on the surface of hair that protects the hair from the aggression of the external environment and has thermal protection properties.

Kinds of silicones and their influence on a condition of hair: 1. Dimethicone - silicone oils. They have a pronounced regenerative effect, create an amazing and light shine, facilitate combing and styling, form a thermal protective film. Can make your hair heavier. 2. polyoldimethicones (copolymers) - water-soluble silicones. They have the property of gently distributing the product through the hair, improving styling. 3. Amino-functional silicones (amodimethicone) - have conditioning and regenerating properties, perfectly retain the color of colored hair. 4. Encapsulated silicones - provide additional conditioning and improves hair styling; 5. dimethicone laurate succinoglycan - water emulsion of high-molecular silicone - has a regenerating and restoring effect, gives silky, glues the split ends of the hair.

Here she is - the ABC of care.