Fashion designer Paul Poiret: biography and photos

An ingenious, amazing man Paul Poiret rightly earned the title of emperor of Paris fashion. He, in his not very humble confession (which excusable great talents) "dressed the era," the most beautiful and noble women of those times. Among his clients are the entire European, including the Russian aristocracy, as well as creative individuals. And his contemporaries were Coco Chanel, Jacques Douce, Charles Worth, NP Lamanova, and so on.

Paul Poiret, biography: early years

The future great couturier was born in Paris to a family of a textile merchant. About how it was his childhood, it is difficult to say, because there is no reliable data. In his biographical book P. Poiret pays more attention to dresses, sketches and hats, which already at that time occupied his mind and imagination. From a young age he cut and sewed himself for his sisters. Even then, the boy's talent broke out and demanded recognition.

Paul Poiret grew up with three sisters, and one (Nicole Grult) later worked on creating dresses and even had her fashion house in Paris. The second, too, has gained fame, true, already an outstanding hatter. Despite the obvious fascination of the son with fashion and everything connected with her, my father did not want to take it seriously, so he insisted that the boy be disaccustomed to school. After his graduation, he arranged for him to work as a messenger with the famous master of umbrella making. But soon Paul Poiret (photo below) left the studio. Taking cuts of silk fabric, he began to sew his first outfits for a doll, donated to the sisters.

The beginning of the creative path

His career the future great master began with the work of the famous French fashion designer, collector and patron of arts Jacques Duse, then there was the studio of Charles Worth, where he mainly engaged in the design and tailoring of outerwear (manti, capes). And already in 1903 Paul Poiret founded his own fashion house. The success was truly lightning and stunning, primarily due to the already acquired connections and popularity among noble clients, aristocracy.

He actively promoted the return to the fashion of ancient times and introduced dresses in the form of tunics and peplos, and also offered the Parisians a new, as they would say, trend kimono.

Family life

Paul Poiret is a fashion designer with an emotional character, a bright and addicted nature. Without a muse, he simply could not exist. She became Denise Bule, whom he married in 1909. According to the master himself, it was she who embodied all ideals. A charming woman from the province surprised the townspeople, and in her bright, unique and exquisite outfits created especially for her, her beauty was revealed. Each of their appearance was transformed into an event, a sensation. The couple was discussed by the press and society. Of course, there was a desire in their lives for the shocking public, sometimes reaching the brink of scandal. It is in this time period that Paul Poiret (dresses see in the photo) gets the glory of the most famous couturier of the world, he is compared with the artist, the creator, and the novelties flow like a horn of plenty.

The couple also became famous as organizers of the most grandiose costumed evenings, which were held annually. Each holiday had its own theme, but the evening "1002-th night", which took place in 1911, was especially famous.

Unfortunately, not all beautiful stories have a corresponding continuation and completion. The couple divorced in 1928, when the financial well-being of Poiret declined. What was the real reason for the separation after so many years, no one can say. However, in one of the newspaper interviews, Denise accused him of cruelty, and Poiret, in turn, called her behavior insulting.

Ethnic motives in creativity

In 1910, after visiting the ballet "Scheherazade" in Paris, Paul Poiret was so impressed that he could not pass by the charm and mystique of the East. For the first time in his collections appeared models with ethnic motives, and a year later he even organized a costumed themed party "A thousand second night". The couturier himself appeared in the form of an influential padishah. After such a grandiose event oriental motifs in clothes for a long time took over secular lionesses. Trousers and a skirt-trousers, turbans - all this has turned from exotic to an outfit for an evening exit.

Russian style in couturier's works

For the first time with Russian talents, Poiret encountered a visit to the ballet, which applauded the whole of Europe. Attracted by his uniqueness and color, he decided to go on a tour of Eastern Europe, including Moscow and St. Petersburg. The famous couturier came to full delight from the Russian folk costume (lush sarafans, kits, kosovorotok, kokoshnikov, kerchiefs and shawls). He even brought some clothes with him to the capital of fashion. Juicy, beautiful flowers and ornament - all this Paul Poiret (dresses presented in the photo) used to create the world's first collection of clothes with Russian motifs. It was called "Kazan".

Armaryak from Paul Poiret

In its primordial version, under this element of the traditionally Russian costume is meant a peasant caftan with straight sleeves and a back that is not cut in the waistline. Armagh Paul Poiret is a stylized costume, made for Denis's wife for the first time. For him, a dark, luxurious fabric was used, emphasizing the originality and color of the Russian style.

The immortal creation of a couturier

The wardrobe of a modern woman is simply inconceivable without an elegant and sexy pencil skirt. Meanwhile, the history of its creation goes back to the beginning of the twentieth century. It was then that a prototype was created - a "lame skirt" for the year. Paul Poiret called it that way because the narrow hem made the movement difficult, and the women were forced to seed, moving around in small steps. "Lame skirt" was the basis not only of the silhouette of "pencil", but also of the year, the famous and popular silhouette "mermaid" for evening and wedding dresses.

Books by P. Poiret

Contrary to fate and hard life circumstances in the 1930s, the couturier issues three of his books: "Fashion and Finance", "Dressing the Era" and "Come Back!". All of them, in fact, are memoirs. Colossal works, read that - a pleasure, a whole series of famous names, bright events against the backdrop of the dramatic history of the twentieth century .. Paul Poiret was a person of exceptional and versatile, he was invited as a lecturer at the Sorbonne, and theaters sometimes gave orders for the creation of stage costumes.

Oblivion of the great fashion designer

Since the 20s of the last century, the trends of capricious fashion began to undergo changes, as well as world political upheavals and war. In history, everything is natural, and some names are replaced by others. So it happened with Poire Poire. Especially often among his competitors mentioned no less than the great Coco Chanel. The fashion designer simply could not adapt to the world that was changing so quickly, and as a result he was ousted from the fashionable Olympus. After 1925, he was on the verge of poverty and had to sell his workshop, a collection of paintings and other art objects. He died in complete oblivion and poverty in 1944. And only after fifteen years the audience again remembered this name - Paul Poiret. Sketches and preserved copies of author's clothes were exhibited by his ex-wife. Time made another turn, and after going through a terrible war, people wanted that forgotten, bright, unbridled beauty.

In 2005, from the personal collection of his wife and children, Poiret, over six hundred different wardrobe items were sold. Some of the lots were accompanied by photographs from a personal family archive. Miraculously preserved things (not always in good condition) were sold to famous world fashion museums.

Paul Poiret is the king of the twentieth-century fashion, giving women freedom in both literal and figurative ways. He made a revolution in the ladies' wardrobe, first offering to give up corsets, long braids, and try on trousers. The bright star of the talented master, unfortunately, did not shine for long, but his name is forever inscribed in history.